Does anyone know whether or not you can rap the descent for Tingey's Terror? I know the guidebook says to hike off to the Schoolroom rappels, but I could have sworn I heard that some rap stations were added off the east side. Thanks in advance.

Did I run into you a few weeks ago on schoolroom? At the belay below the Movie variation?

Anyway, I've done Tingeys twice, the first time we took the schoolroom rappels and the second we attempted to stay on the east side. We didn't have good beta for the rappels to the east and it turned into a mini epic. Unless you can get precise beta, I'd walk over to schoolroom.

Yep, that was me. Thanks for the info. Let me know if you ever want to go climbing in Ogden.

who added the bolt right next to a textbook stopper crack on the original last pitch of Tingey's Terror? so lame it defies description....

To find the raps JG installed you basically have to climb the Torture to the top. IF you find the bare belay hangers (2nd to last pitch no chain/tat) the raps are immediately to the east, over that steep edge, which is the Flakes. Then you have to hunt for the ones under the Flakes...I'd just walk over to Schoolroom unless you are-

A: up for adventure/possible epic
B: somebody shows you EXACTLY where to drop over
C: you get better beta :)

Seriously those raps are hard to locate unless you know where the Flakes tops out.

You can even traverse west and find a big tree and drop some raps...there are stations all over up there. Most will deposit you above the Dihedrals.....good luck.

Nope not those, I THINK they were Petzl's.. They are on the Torture itself, the last belay before the top. From that belay near the east edge just over the edge (east) lies the Flakes. You can reach these from a diagonaling rap (east) from the top of the Torture w/ a 70m. From the bottom of the Flakes you have to go East over a little edge to a stance. If you find 2 glue in's you've found the raps. A 70m makes life easy. The rap kinda traverses along the wall to the top of the East Gate routes.

The bare hangers in question are ?marked? in red. The yellow dot is where you can find the top of the Flakes.

Eric,

Just did this today and happened across an anchor (for some slab climb that I can't figure out what it is). Look in the book (page 318) and see the top of tingey's (where it says <- to school room...). Directly under that belay (and maybe a bit west depending where you set up your anchor) there are some chains. One bolt has a few links that are even with the other which just has a hanger. They are painted gray. a 60m will get you down. A 70 would have at least cut out 1 rap and might have cut off more (but I'm not sure) Two ropes would have been really nice though as there are 7 (safe) raps with a 60m! It puts you right back at the beginning. Hope that helps... Better yet, let's do this early next season and I'll show you!