Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Best Thumb Descent Route?

  [ Forums > Northern Utah & Idaho ]
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>

 
By Lee Jensen
Oct 25, 2006
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

I am going up The Thumb for the first time this weekend, and remembered reading different accounts about new descent options.

I know the standard descent goes to the east and then down climbs and rappels into the Plumb Line Gully, but is there now a direct rappel option?

Thanks for the help.


FLAG
By Nathan Fisher
Oct 25, 2006
My son Camerin and I.

He placed a bit of info on Thumbing to Bogota


FLAG
By mike1
Oct 25, 2006

I rapped the direct line last weekend and most of the stations have had bolts replaced or added recently. Bring two ropes. I still remember the downclimb of plumline gully over 15 years ago. It was very loose, very long with lots of bushwacking = not much fun.


FLAG
By Lee Jensen
Nov 7, 2009
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

I did the walk off descent of the Thumb yesterday. Contrary to the many posted opinions I found it easy and fairly straight forward. It took us 1.5 hours. I posted a picture here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/30/58/106593058_large_>>>>>

If someone has rapped all the way from the summit down the face I would love to see a topo. However, it wasn't obvious to me how the rappels connected and so the walk off seemed much safer and faster. Plus you only need a single 60m rope.

Save yourself the trouble and enjoy the walk off. This walk off is tame compared to many ones at Red Rock or even Yosemite.


FLAG
By Craig Martin
From Park City, UT
Nov 7, 2009
.<br /><br />

I rappeled the Thumb a few years ago after an ascent of Thumbing to Bogota. I had two ropes so figured I would give it a try.

This is what I thought of it. Comment


FLAG
By Lee Jensen
Nov 7, 2009
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

Thanks for the comment Craig. It sounds like your experience was about what I would have expected. It reaffirms my belief that the walk off is the way to go.

I think it would be a great service for someone, with a lot of experience rapping on this wall, to draw up a detailed topo on how to get off of it safely.

We came up Indecent Exposure and then went up S-Direct. I poked around on the Lunch Ledge looking for anchors, but never found any except a bunch of slings on a horn at the bottom of Nob Job.


FLAG
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Nov 7, 2009
Our less than official sponsor!

We did it with double 70's and got down really fast. I will never walk off again.


FLAG
By bus driver
Nov 8, 2009

I walked off last weekend and swore I'd rappel it from here on out.

You end up having to rappel almost as many times as you would if you just rapped down the face. . . except you have a bunch of walking in loose sand/rocks in between. On a high note, I did manage to avoid filing my shoes with granite sand until the very bottom this time.

If you are going to walk down, leave your packs near plumbline to avoid having to walk back up to the base of the route.


FLAG
By Craig Martin
From Park City, UT
Nov 8, 2009
.<br /><br />

Has anybody tried the paragliding descent? That has got to be the best way down.


FLAG
By Lee Jensen
Nov 8, 2009
Top of the second pitch on Touchstone.

Bus Driver, it sounds like your expericence was very different from mine. I only did two single rope raps. One off the summit, and one half way down. I suppose I could have done three more, but those were very easy and obvious to bypass. I can't imagine that going down the face is less than seven two rope rappels.

It would be a great service is someone could mark up one of the images of the Thumb found on this site with the actual rappel route and an accurate description.


FLAG
By Allen Sanderson
Nov 9, 2009

Don't be a sap, take two ropes and rap.


FLAG
By James Garrett
Nov 9, 2009

Not quite sure why this is even a point of discussion. Rapping From the two bolt chain anchor from the summit block and connecting the various lower bolted stations on very long established lines will become obvious and straight forward once you do it. Walking down is hideous compared to the easy pulls and pleasant raps. In fact, the lower bit can be accomplished in a number of different variations. We used two ropes, with one being a 7mm tag line and it seems like a painless enough way to get two ropes up there. All Thumb routes have much to offer, the approach trails up and down seem to be the one main distraction and annoying aspect of climbing on the Thumb. But if you haven't climbed to the top, make it your next destination!


FLAG
By Zac Robinson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2009
Me in the Black Canyon.  Checking out a stopper.

I really never felt like the descent was that bad. Just hiking down a gully with occasional raps. Gotta leave the 'cragging' sometime.

or maybe I have just spent too many Tuesdays on the No-Stars...


FLAG
By Craig Martin
From Park City, UT
Nov 10, 2009
.<br /><br />

What about a Seed Flying descent on roller blades? Now that would be something to see.


FLAG
By Boissal
From UT
Nov 10, 2009
Anchor bolt on S-direct.

James Garrett wrote:
easy pulls and pleasant raps

Sure the descent is unpleasant and requires - gasp - actual effort... But it's not Middle Bell Tower either. Also, chickenheads up there have a thing for ropes. What do you do once your line is stuck halfway down Knob Job and you only have a static to lead Standard Thumb? You epic all over the place and wish you were walking off...
Tagging a line sucks about as much dong as having a pair of approach shoes on your harness. Pick your poison but know that raps gone wrong are way worse than hiking no matter how you look at it.


FLAG
By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2009
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Allen Sanderson wrote:
Don't be a sap, take two ropes and rap.


Don't be a clown, you climbed up, you can hike down...

Yeah, some of the hikes down are sketchy and loose, but, beat's gettin' a rope stuck (ala Boissal, but, that's pretty random to have a rope flip over and stick on a chicken head. Must be bad karma for something...har har).

Cheers.


FLAG
By James Garrett
Nov 10, 2009

boissal,
You crack me up. I have yet to have a legitimate rappelling epic in the Wasatch...Alps, yes, Alaska, yes, Wyoming, yes...but I just don't seem to suffer from bad luck I suppose, like you obviously do...better get up there and start chopping. Make us all walk down....on the otherhand, I do know a few people who have suffered ankle injuries descending loose unstable scree slabs...me being one of them.


FLAG
By Boissal
From UT
Nov 10, 2009
Anchor bolt on S-direct.

edited to spare everyone a new dong-show


FLAG
By bus driver
Nov 10, 2009

James, thanks for the your clarification on the rappel route. I heard you could do it and I definitely will next time. regular rapping and especially simul-rapping would have gotten our party of four down in no time. . . right to the packs. our party stopped numerous times on the gully descent when loose rocks started rolling.

For the record, I would be carrying shoes up that thing even I were rapping. Guide tennies are a comfortable way to climb the first half of the route!


FLAG
By tenesmus
Nov 11, 2009

Boissal wrote:
edited to spare everyone a new dong-show


I didn't know you were capable of the self edit? Me either, and my wife is constantly reminding me to "turn the filter on"


FLAG
By Wolfski
From slc, ut
Nov 12, 2009

The first rap after getting off the thumb is the most fun part of climbing the thumb ;) who doesn't enjoy looking at the ziton as it flexes


FLAG
By Shaft
From Salt Lake City
Nov 18, 2009
Avatard

Let the dong-show commence.

For the record, I (not boissal) pulled the ropes. At dusk I pulled on our static line and watched as the lead line came slithering down the face, was grabbed by the evil chickenhead on knob job and then it swung all the up and around to firmly jam over itself. Upon retrieval the next day the end was found to have wrapped under after the swing.

Had we threaded the shorter static line we would have then had our 70 meter dynamic line to fix and retrieve, or at least a dynamic cord to complete the last pitch.

James, despite your insinuations, I can assure you that boissal is not a bolt-chopper. Anchor criticizer perhaps........


FLAG
By Zac Robinson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 18, 2009
Me in the Black Canyon.  Checking out a stopper.

Shaft wrote:
I can assure you that boissal is not a bolt-chopper. Anchor criticizer perhaps........


and dong for sure.


FLAG
By Boissal
From UT
Nov 18, 2009
Anchor bolt on S-direct.

Zac Robinson wrote:
and dong for sure.

? I'll let that one sliDe since it's Obvious you caN't stop yourself from Going there.


FLAG
By Zac Robinson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 18, 2009
Me in the Black Canyon.  Checking out a stopper.

It was actually impossible for me to *not* post that.


FLAG
By Greg G
From SLC, UT
2 days ago

back on subject. I have successfully rappelled the entire route from the summit block walked down to the anchors above the 5.8 OW above the S-direct, down the s-direct to lunch ledge and then down the s-crack face. 7 raps straight to our bags 70 feet below the first pitch.


FLAG

  [ Forums > Northern Utah & Idaho ]
Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>