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> Owens River Gorge
> Inner Gorge
> Mothership Cliff
Northern Pike
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 34 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Beckham & Bates 1995 |
Page Views: | 1,890 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | david goldstein on Nov 28, 2006 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance
Details
Please avoid climbing routes between 'Steelhead' and 'Living Dead' due to active raptor nest in this location. April-July or until nest activity is complete.
Description
Northern Pike and its neighbor, Living Dead, make a great one-two punch for the 5.11 climber. Throw in Catch-n-Release and Bird of Prey and you've got a four round knockout.
Start on the right side of Mothership, on a north facing wall with a couple of impossible looking climbs to the right of it. Pass three bolts (~5.9), go left (right would put you on Fight Club, 13b) across an arete to a couple of easy moves, clip a what-for? bolt (apparently it directs the rope over a favorable section of the arete) then clip the 5th bolt with a longer sling than you'd like. Getting to the 6th bolt is the crux and quite involved for the reach challenged. The climbing from here on is extremely enjoyable -- steep and stimulating on fabulous rock.
This pitch might feel slightly run-out. (It has six fewer bolts than the Living Dead which is 10' longer.) A small nut can be placed between the 5th and 6th bolts, taking some of the bite out of the pike.
Start on the right side of Mothership, on a north facing wall with a couple of impossible looking climbs to the right of it. Pass three bolts (~5.9), go left (right would put you on Fight Club, 13b) across an arete to a couple of easy moves, clip a what-for? bolt (apparently it directs the rope over a favorable section of the arete) then clip the 5th bolt with a longer sling than you'd like. Getting to the 6th bolt is the crux and quite involved for the reach challenged. The climbing from here on is extremely enjoyable -- steep and stimulating on fabulous rock.
This pitch might feel slightly run-out. (It has six fewer bolts than the Living Dead which is 10' longer.) A small nut can be placed between the 5th and 6th bolts, taking some of the bite out of the pike.
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