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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Cathedral Rock Big Loop
An all-encompassing loop with some moderate riding, some challenging riding, and incredible views. Near Sedona, AZ
Big Park Loop
A great beginner trail in the heart of the Sedona grandeur. Near Village of Oak Creek (Big Park), AZ
Twin Buttes Loop
Spectacular scenery covering many singletrack trails. Near Sedona, AZ
Broken Arrow Trail
Amazing scenery through some of Sedona's most spectacular rock formations. Near Sedona, AZ
Little Horse Trail
Fast trail on smoother trail for this area. Near Sedona, AZ
Huckaby
A varied trail with scenery, a creek crossing, and technical challenge. Near Sedona, AZ
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Northern Arizona  


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Location: 35.1828, -111.6541 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,480,972
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jan 23, 2012
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Towers-Monument Valley. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Northern Arizona (NAZ) is a vast and varied landscape of rolling ponderosa forests, high elevation plains, and sculpted sandstone deserts. Home to the Grand Canyon, the Painted Desert, the Mogollon Rim, the San Francisco Peaks, and some of the best whitewater on the Colorado River, NAZ is quite literally a sacred land to the Navajo and Hopi, as well as many a rock climber....

Climbing in NAZ really began in the late 1950's with the first ascent of the Mace in Sedona, done by visiting climbers, Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, and Dave Rearick. In the years to follow many of the major formations and summits throughout NAZ would be pioneered, and an age of vast exploration was on.

As Tim Toula writes in his classic guide, A Cheep Way To Fly, "I entered thru the historical gate of the Flagstaff climbing scene in the fall of 1978 when climbing still was much more of an underground sport than it is today. There was a mystique about climbing then that was hard to grasp. Perhaps it was because there were so few climbers then. Names like Baxter, Coats, Davidson, and later, Murray, Gault, and Mattson floated thru the air like phantoms. Their names heard often, but their talents seldom seen". Check this book out for a more comprehensive slice of the early history of NAZ climbing. At twenty some years old, this is still one of few sources for NAZ.

Steve Grossman (during his Royal Robbins phase) turns the Tralfador Roof on the second ascent in 1976. Paul Davidson belays. Volunteer Canyon, AZ
Steve Grossman (during his Royal Robbins phase) turns the Tralfador Roof on the second ascent in 1976. Paul Davidson belays. Volunteer Canyon, AZ


Now a days that list of names has grown tremendously as a constant stream of talent pours out of Flagstaff, which is the heart of the NAZ climbing scene. The age of exploration that began in the late 50's has not only continued to this day, but has blossomed into a collective energy that really defines the community here. The first decade of 2000 saw more new routes go in than any other time in our history, and there is always something fresh to check out.

Check out Joel Unema's, Grass Routes Climbing, for stories and photos about local areas, and interviews with local route developers. It's a cool project and will hopefully turn into a means to record and revel in the colorful history of Northern Arizona rock climbing. grassroutesclimbing.com/.

NAZ has long been held as a bastion of traditional climbing, and with good reason. With crags like Paradise Forks, The Overlook, Volunteer Canyon, and The Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon, NAZ is a trad climber's dream. Add to that the back country adventures of the Grand Canyon National Park, Hualapai Wall, and Sedona Area, you might just find yourself slipping into a heart pounding state of trad daddy nirvana.

Joel Unema on the FA of Gemini Dragon Fire 5.13+, The Waterfall, Oak Creek Canyon. <br />Blake McCord Photography
Joel Unema on the FA of Gemini Dragon Fire 5.13+, The Waterfall, Oak Creek Canyon.
Blake McCord Photography


If you are looking for sport routes you won't have to look too hard with the likes of the Winslow Wall, and Jacks Canyon to the East, Mt. Elden, Oak Creek Canyon, and The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdon) right around Flag, and of course, the Virgin River Gorge up North. Sport climbing is alive and well throughout NAZ. Whether you are looking for steep pockets, or off vertical crimps, the list of fine crags and excellent routes is sure to keep you happily swinging through the air, one way or another....

Local sport developing fiend, Matt Greco, unlocking Uncle Kentucky 5.13-, James Canyon, AZ
Local sport developing fiend, Matt Greco, unlocking Uncle Kentucky 5.13-, James Canyon, AZ


And then there is the bouldering.... Flagstaff is world renown for it's pocketed limestone roofs at areas like Priest Draw, but these roofs are tucked away in folds all over NAZ. It also goes well beyond what you have seen, or may see in the media. And though the double digit lines keep adding up at places like the Draw and Cherry Canyon, even the beginning boulderer is going to find a slew of premiere challenges at crags like Buffalo Park, Lake Mary Bouldering, and Turkey Tanks. From the Fontainebleau like slopers of Kelly Canyon, to the sharp dacite crimps of Gloria's, Northern Arizona is a boulderer's paradise.

Andrew Ryder wasting no time on Human Wasteland V6+, at the confluence of Kelly Canyon and Pump House Wash.
Andrew Ryder wasting no time on Human Wasteland V6+, at the confluence of Kelly Canyon and Pump House Wash.


NAZ has some of the most pristine and unpolluted crags of anywhere I have been in the US. Please help us keep them that way.

We tend to take care of our crags, and most of the routes listed here have adequate to excellent anchors or other fixed hardware, if they have any at all. However, one may encounter a few old, rotting pins in places like Sedona and in the Grand Canyon.

Many of the anchor systems throughout NAZ employ the "fixed carabiner" style anchor which is specifically set up for easy, safe lowering or rappelling. If one of the two carabiners is worn past the point of common sense, please leave one of yours in place and take the old one home with you. They make great conversation pieces....

And while a lot of the routes listed here are well traveled, it can be said that NAZ is full of adventurous climbing. Always check your holds if they appear suspect at all.

Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ  <br />Photo by Andre Kiryanov
Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ
Photo by Andre Kiryanov


Flagstaff, AZ is a fairly small college town and liberal capitol of Arizona, though it also has an undeniable blue collar cowboy flair. Sitting at 7000' and tucked in between the Mogollon Rim to the south, and the San Francisco Peaks just north of town, Flagstaff is draped over historic Route 66, and has everything a visiting climber may need, including buffets and chain healthfood stores. Cheap motels, and plenty of public land for free camping. Groovy coffee houses, and late night entertainment downtown.

Rest days can be filled with excellent hiking and peak bagging, miles and miles of world class mountain biking, or deep and narrow Canyoneering adventures. Or just take it easy and wander about the historic downtown which is filled with gear shops, art galleries, brewpubs, and a few good restaurants.



Local Stone


Here's a short list of local rock types and corresponding crags or areas which are either right around town or within an hour and half drive from Flagstaff.

Basalt-
The Waterfall- trad
Paradise Forks- trad
The Overlook-trad
Volunteer Canyon- trad

Sandstone-
The Grand Canyon- trad
Winslow Wall- sport/ trad
Sedona- sport/ trad
The Doctor's Office- sport/ trad
Pump House Wash- sport/ trad
Kelly Canyon- bouldering

Limestone-
The Pit- sport
Priest Draw- bouldering
Lake Mary- bouldering
Cherry Canyon- bouldering
Jacks Canyon- sport

Dacite-
Mt Elden- sport/ trad
The Hobo Jungle- sport/ trad
The Peaks Crag- sport/ trad
Bill Williams Mt- sport/ trad

Jeff Snyder and Big Balls in Cowtown 5.12-R, Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon.
Jeff Snyder and Big Balls in Cowtown 5.12-R, Paradise Forks, Sycamore Canyon.


Local Photos


The ever changing and often daunting landscapes of NAZ are a true sight to behold and climb in. The often expansive or tight horizons makes it difficult to capture with a lens. However, these brave local photographers and videographers have been capturing the essence of these wild and untamable lands for years or even decades. If you enjoy excellent photos, climbing and so much more, then you may want to do some clicking here.

John Burcham johnburcham.tumblr.com/

James Q Martin jamesqmartin.com/photography/i...

Tamara Hastie tamarahastie.com/

Blake McCord blakemccordphoto.com/index.htm...

Wade Forrest deep into the mysterious Mulva 5.11, Winslow Wall. <br /> <br />Dan Schwarz photo
Wade Forrest deep into the mysterious Mulva 5.11, Winslow Wall.

Dan Schwarz photo


Drive Times


Approximate drive times from Flagstaff to...

Cochise Stronghold- 6.5 hours
Mt. Lemon- 6 hours
Hueco Tanks- 10 hours
Indian Creek- 5.5 hours
Yosemite Valley- 10 hours
The Needles (CA)- 10 hours
Joshua Tree- 5 hours
Red Rocks- 5 hours

Gyms-



Flagstaff Climbing Center
flagstaffclimbing.com
928-556-9909
205 S. San Francisco St. Flagstaff, AZ 86001

Flagstaff Climbing Center (climbing gym, retail shop and guide service) is located in historic downtown Flagstaff. The center features over 7000 square feet of widely varied climbing terrain to suit all abilities and climbing styles including 40’ tall top rope and lead walls and bouldering area. Flagstaff Climbing is here today because of its commitment to support the climbing community though quality training facilities, expert instruction, informative equipment sales and a friendly atmosphere for all climbers.

Main Street Boulders
flagstaffclimbing.com
928-556-9909
1519 N. Main St. Ste 107, Flagstaff, AZ 86004

Main Street Boulders (owned and operated by Flagstaff Climbing Center) is located on Main Street in Flagstaff. The bouldering gym features over 2000 square feet of widely varied state-of-the-art bouldering terrain, built by Vertical Solutions, to suit all abilities and climbing styles and a first-class training area to build strong climbers. Main Street Boulders is here today because of Flagstaff Climbing Centers commitment to support the climbing community though quality training facilities, expert instruction and a friendly staff.

Beta Bouldering Gym
betaboulderinggym.com/
928-266-0498
495 s. River Run Rd. Suite 104, Flagstaff AZ 86001

Beta Bouldering Gym, Northern Arizona’s largest bouldering gym, is located just a few blocks from downtown Flagstaff and Northern Arizona University. Beta is a 6,000 square foot bouldering facility built by the local climbing community in 2012 to house the growing demand for a place to train, get strong and socialize. With climbing terrain carefully built for all abilities and two separate workout areas, Beta strives to provide the best indoor bouldering experience in Arizona.

Gear-



flagstaffusedsports.com/ Flagstaff Sports Exchange is another local, climber owned shop in town.

babbittsbackcountry.com/ Babbits Backcountry Outfitters is right downtown, and covers the basics as far as climbing gear.

aspensports.com/ Aspen Sports is right downtown, and covers the basics as far as climbing gear.

peacesurplus.com/# Peace Surplus is also right downtown, and covers the basics as far as climbing gear.

In the crux or past the crux? Another lap on one of the best in town :) <br />© James Q Martin <br />Three Turkeys 5.11, Paradise Forks
In the crux or past the crux? Another lap on one of the best in town :)
© James Q Martin
Three Turkeys 5.11, Paradise Forks

Getting There 

Flagstaff sits at the junction of Interstate 40 and Interstate 17 in north central Arizona.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

1,755 Total Routes

['4 Stars',197],['3 Stars',798],['2 Stars',558],['1 Star',177],['Bomb',8]
['<=5.6',22],['5.7',42],['5.8',80],['5.9',143],['5.10',352],['5.11',370],['5.12',257],['5.13',56],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',29],['V2-3',164],['V4-5',124],['V6-7',60],['V8-9',26],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',27],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Northern Arizona:
Sedona's Scenic Cruise    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 700'   Sedona : Gibraltar Rock
Mayflower   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Paradise Forks : The Prow
Mars Attacks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 350'   Dry Creek Road Area : The Fin
Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 300'   Coffeepot Rock Area : Summit Block Rock
Isaiah   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook
Original Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Cathedral Rock Area : The Mace
Mr. Slate   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Pit (aka Le Petit Verdo... : Swiss Tower
Black and Tan   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Waterfall : The Main Amphitheater
East Of Eden   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall
The Windows Route   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : Super Crack Tower
Touched By An Angel   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 650'   Sedona : Mormon Canyon
Coyote Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Courthouse Butte
The Prow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   Paradise Forks : The Prow
The Winsloner   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Winslow Wall : West Side
Heart and Soul   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Oak Creek Canyon : Sterling Pass
Nyctophiliac    5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   South Side : West End Wall
Slap My Fro   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Winslow Wall : West Side
Vesper   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   The Strip : Lime Kiln
Shangri-La   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   Sedona : Lost Canyon
Mission To Mars   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Church Spires Area : The Planetarium
Browse More Classics in Northern Arizona

Featured Route For Northern Arizona
Leah Sandvoss on Moonjuice (5.11c), Upper Beach, Church Spires, Sedona, AZ  <br />Photo by Andre Kiryanov

Moon Juice 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  AZ : Sedona Area : ... : Upper Beach
Moon Juice is a classic bit of sport climbing sitting high above the church, and for the grade stands out as one of the better sport pitches in Sedona. If it's cold out, this south facing route is guaranteed to warm you up one way or another.Look for the overhanging arete with huecos and large rails! Start up vertical face and figure out the tricky low crux, and then pick your way past a heavily pocketed band of stone. Take a quick break at the base of the overhanging aręte, a few deep breaths ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Local Information for Northern Arizona
Photos of Northern Arizona Slideshow Add Photo
fulgham on jolly roger at the forks
fulgham on jolly roger at the forks
Dawn Kish holding the swing on Big Mouth 5.11+. Big Mouth Wall. Chevelon Canyon, AZ
Dawn Kish holding the swing on Big Mouth 5.11+. Bi...
Tritle Peak, N.Rim, GCNP.
Tritle Peak, N.Rim, GCNP.
Angels' Gate from trail. <br /> <br />photo by Bob Kerry  11/01 <br />
Angels' Gate from trail. photo by Bob Kerry 11/0...
queenfolia at the forks
queenfolia at the forks
Hartman Natural Bridge, Lava Creek, N.Rim, GCNP.
Hartman Natural Bridge, Lava Creek, N.Rim, GCNP.
summer cragging in the san Francisco peaks
summer cragging in the san Francisco peaks
SB Point, N.Rim, GCNP.
SB Point, N.Rim, GCNP.
Petrified Forest NP, Arizona
Petrified Forest NP, Arizona
Vishnu Temple, GCNP.
Vishnu Temple, GCNP.

Comments on Northern Arizona Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Dechter
Jan 6, 2014
I thought several of you may find this handy...

The Coconino National Forest has FREE color maps you can navigate with on your smartphone or tablet mobile device. Here are a couple links to a 1-pg giude to show you how to do it.

imgur.com/ZXMO97e - for Apple Smartphones/Tablets
imgur.com/VMO8tyT - for Android Smartphones/Tablets

The instructions has you download the Avenza PDF Maps app and then the north half and south half of the Coconino National Forest. It is all free. The Coconino National Forest made this tool available to encourage people stay on the designated roads system for motor vehicle use.

The Avenza PDF maps app can be used to track GPS routes and mark waypoints. You can also download and use free USGS 7.5" quad maps with the app as well.