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Lighthouse Tower
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Iron Maiden T 
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Northeast Route 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Carter, Ziegler, Merrill, 1970
Page Views: 1,967
Submitted By: George Bell on May 2, 2002

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Rocco on P2

Description 

We climbed this route thinking it was Lonely Vigil! Thankfully Bill Wright was along to lead the second pitch, because it was pretty gutsy without big cams - he had to free it or take a big fall. Also along on our ascent were Ken Lieden and John Prater.

This was the first route on Lighthouse Spire but is rarely climbed now due to the offwidth crux (the 1970 party rated it 5.9 A3). Approach the climb as for Lonely Vigil, doing a short pitch to the notch south of the spire. Continue past the start of Lonely Vigil, and climb an easy 5.7 pitch to the notch between Lighthouse and Dolomite Spires. An alternate first pitch climbs more directly to the notch (see photo).

North of this notch is the start of "Dolofright" (on Dolomite Spire), but on the other side, the obvious wide crack is this route. The second and crux pitch climbs this offwidth crack to a bolted anchor with chains about 75' up. Pitch 3: walk right on the giant ledge and climb a 5.8 squeeze chimney to the ridge (same as P3 on the Poseidon Adventure). You have now joined Lonely Vigil at it's 3rd pitch. You can belay on the ridge, or continue p3: traverse left, clip a bolt, and climb straight up to an anchor just below the summit.

After doing the scary summit pitch, you can rap Loney Vigil or rap this route (one double rope rap easily makes it from the last belay to the top of pitch 2, from here another double rope rap reaches the ground).

Protection 

A complete set of cams and stoppers plus (1) #4 Camalot, (1) #4.5 Camalot, (1 or 2) #5 Camalots.


Photos of Northeast Route Slideshow Add Photo
Liz on pitch 1. Nov 2006
Liz on pitch 1. Nov 2006
Marvin Porter on Lighthouse Tower c1981
Marvin Porter on Lighthouse Tower c1981
NE Route Topo
BETA PHOTO: NE Route Topo

Comments on Northeast Route Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
May 16, 2002

This is DEFINITELY not the first free ascent... sorry fellows!