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Black Peak
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Northeast Ridge T 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
Page Views: 1,620
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Aug 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Britta climbing through dramatic fog


This route is a quintessential Cascades ridge climb, featuring easy climbing, brilliant position and pulse-quickening exposure. Rock quality is "not good" at the bottom of the route, and improves noticeably to "mediocre" as you ascend.

The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.

Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.


From camp near Wing Lake, climb easy snow to the low spot in the NE ridge (some scrambling depending on season).

Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.


If you need protection, bring a light alpine rack and a rope.

Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
On NE Ridge.
On NE Ridge.
Looking down to the NW face
Looking down to the NW face
Black Peak on the approach.  S Ridge is the left s...
Black Peak on the approach. S Ridge is the left s...

Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
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By Tom Bath
From: Kent, Wa
Nov 5, 2009

The rock on the 1st half of the ridge is very loose. Definitely a helmet route.
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