Northeast Ridge  Easy 5th

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II Consensus:  Easy 5th [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Eric Fjellanger on Aug 27, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Britta climbing through dramatic fog

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Description 

This route is a quintessential Cascades ridge climb, featuring easy climbing, brilliant position and pulse-quickening exposure. Rock quality is "not good" at the bottom of the route, and improves noticeably to "mediocre" as you ascend.

The route is mostly fourth-class with some low-fifth steps. Good simulclimbing terrain.

Routefinding is generally easier than it appears. Climb the ridge, tending toward the left side more than the right.

Location 

From camp near Wing Lake, climb easy snow to the low spot in the NE ridge (some scrambling depending on season).

Once on the summit, the descent is the south scramble route. Use one rap or downclimb to gain the flat benches immediately below. Move east and uphill briefly, then work south down complicated, chossy benches, toward the south col. There may be cairns to help you out. Descending from the col to Wing Lake is much more pleasant when snow-covered.

Protection 

If you need protection, bring a light alpine rack and a rope.

Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow

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On NE Ridge.	Looking down to the NW face	Black Peak on the approach. S Ridge is the left s...