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Bear Creek Spire
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East Arete 
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Northeast Ridge 

Northeast Ridge 

Easy 5th

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine
Consensus: 5.0 [details]
FA: Norman Clyde - May 27, 1932
Season: Spring to Fall
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Mike and Tony pose on top of the large tower low o...

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Description 

An excellent scramble on solid granite, with spectacular views along the summit ridge.

Start at the low point on the ridge (Peppermint Pass) and follow its crest, at first low angle, pass the large tower on the left and begin to climb steeper rock, using whatever weakness you can find, generally stay left of the ridge itself (which is soon joined by the North Arete). Below the summit ridge the rock is quite steep and you may want to use a rope. Gain the summit ridge and follow it to the required summit mantle.


Location 

Approach:
From Dade Lake hike across benches and perhaps snow then more benches up to Peppermint Pass.

Descent:
Descend down Class 4 rocks on the West side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards and down snow/scree and steps back to Dade Lake.


Protection 

Solo or rope and small rack for the upper section.



Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Why must I be a man with a suitcase full of cheese?

Why must I be a man with a suitcase full of cheese...

Final mile of the approach.

Final mile of the approach.

Pick a line, start climbing.

Pick a line, start climbing.

View of the NE ridge.

View of the NE ridge.

Lunch of champions. In the notch that leads to the scree descent back into the drainage.

Lunch of champions. In the notch that leads to the...

Claire Rasmussen on the summit.

Claire Rasmussen on the summit.

Claire Rasmussen below Bear Creek Spire

Claire Rasmussen below Bear Creek Spire

Chris on a spicier variation

Chris on a spicier variation

Craze features on the granite

Craze features on the granite

Fins galore

Fins galore

NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire in winter.

NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire in winter.


Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 5, 2007

One of my favorite routes in the Sierras....

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 23, 2008

Absolutely, positively, undeniably classic.

By Bennett
From: pdx
Jul 18, 2009

climbed this last week, phenomenal. did some 5.7 up high, last 5 pitches roped and stayed on the ridge. some steep snow and exciting talus for sure, ice axe handy for decent. the 4th class ridge, some 2/3 of the route had at least a 5.2 move on it... overhanging reach to ledge bellyflop with dirt and detritus...

By Hamik Mukelyan
Aug 26, 2012

This is a really cool route to do in winter. No ice or whatever, but the scenery is pretty sweet (see photo)