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Bear Creek Spire
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East Arete T 
North Arete T 
Northeast Ridge T 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine
Consensus:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c [details]
FA: Norman Clyde - May 27, 1932
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 11,290
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Mike and Tony pose on top of the large tower low o...

Description 

An excellent scramble on solid granite, with spectacular views along the summit ridge.

Start at the low point on the ridge (Peppermint Pass) and follow its crest, at first low angle, pass the large tower on the left and begin to climb steeper rock, using whatever weakness you can find, generally stay left of the ridge itself (which is soon joined by the North Arete). Below the summit ridge the rock is quite steep and you may want to use a rope. Gain the summit ridge and follow it to the required summit mantle.

Location 

Approach:
From Dade Lake hike across benches and perhaps snow then more benches up to Peppermint Pass.

Descent:
Descend down Class 4 rocks on the West side to sand, follow left of the north ridge then cut over it eastwards and down snow/scree and steps back to Dade Lake.

Protection 

Solo or rope and small rack for the upper section.


Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Andrew on Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire
Andrew on Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire
NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire in winter.
NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire in winter.
Why must I be a man with a suitcase full of cheese...
Why must I be a man with a suitcase full of cheese...
Claire Rasmussen below Bear Creek Spire
Claire Rasmussen below Bear Creek Spire
Claire Rasmussen on the summit.
Claire Rasmussen on the summit.
Craze features on the granite
Craze features on the granite
View of the NE ridge.
View of the NE ridge.
Pick a line, start climbing.
Pick a line, start climbing.
striped tower on the NE Arete descent
striped tower on the NE Arete descent
Talus approach
Talus approach
Final mile of the approach.
Final mile of the approach.
Lunch of champions. In the notch that leads to the...
Lunch of champions. In the notch that leads to the...
Heading up the climbers trail just after Long Lake...
Heading up the climbers trail just after Long Lake...
Fins galore
Fins galore
View of Bear Creek Spire from Dade Lake.
View of Bear Creek Spire from Dade Lake.
Chris on a spicier variation
Chris on a spicier variation
From the NE Ridge, we headed straight up to the en...
BETA PHOTO: From the NE Ridge, we headed straight up to the en...

Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 5, 2007

One of my favorite routes in the Sierras....
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 23, 2008

Absolutely, positively, undeniably classic.
By Bennett
From: Lafayette CO
Jul 18, 2009

climbed this last week, phenomenal. did some 5.7 up high, last 5 pitches roped and stayed on the ridge. some steep snow and exciting talus for sure, ice axe handy for decent. the 4th class ridge, some 2/3 of the route had at least a 5.2 move on it... overhanging reach to ledge bellyflop with dirt and detritus...
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Aug 26, 2012

This is a really cool route to do in winter. No ice or whatever, but the scenery is pretty sweet (see photo)
By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 3, 2013

There are two ways to approach Dade lake. Option 1: You can take a climbers trail to the right just after Long Lake and follow the obvious path to the upper Treasure Lakes, then, I recommend gaining the ridge to the left, navigate through the greenery and follow this to Dade Lake. Option 2: You can follow the Morgan Pass trail to the lower Treasure Lake and head up the talus to gain Dade Lake. Option 2 is MUCH easier. We humped packs up Option 1 and down Option 2. If going overnight, I feel the best option is to camp at Chicken Foot Lake and go light up the talus sections. If you don't mind the talus and chose to overnight at Dade, we found the water in Dade to be very buggy without a filter. We were able to get much clearer water flowing out of the lake.