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Sharkstooth
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Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown by me
Page Views: 33,069
Submitted By: Steve Merschel on Jul 22, 2001

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Rick Leading the second pitch.

Description 

From the Andrew's Glacier trail, you will see the Sharkstooth to the south. Hike up the Gash, which is the large boulderfield between you and the rock. As you get near, there will be a long fin of rock coming off the northeast ridge and heading, guess which direction...northeast. Climb to the east of that and scramble up on some large ledges for the first pitch.

P1. The first pitch can start in several places that are all about 5.4-5.6. I'd say we ran about 160 feet of rope on the first pitch. There are probably several places you could rig a belay.

P2. The second pitch was similar to the first 5.4-5.6 climbing, about the same distance and straight up the northeast ridge. Not a lot of zigzagging on this route.

P3. The third pitch goes 5.6 in the guidebook, but it was probably the crux pitch, in other words, it was more difficult than the first two. The guidebook says startup a left-facing dihedral. Well, I didn't see any of those. I saw a big right facing dihedral and then a crack about 4 feet to the right of that. The dihedral looked tough, but the crack next to it was good. Later on that pitch, you finally work you're way into a good right facing dihedral with some good stemming moves and a small section where I moved out onto the face for easier climbing. The moves weren't hard here, but smearing stems always seem a little unsecure to me, have fun. Somehow, we combined pitches 3 and 4 in the guidebook together and ended pitch 3 on top of a large ledge in the ridge. The ledge is big enough that you can untie, get a good view of the crowds on the Petit and have a snack.

P4. Pitch 4 starts up a wide crack, but I hung out on the face for most this, because I think offwidths are about as fun as getting beaten with a rubber hose. The climbing is a lot easier on these last two pitches. Also, the route is completely obvious here as well. The 4th pitch ends on another, somewhat smaller ledge. More people on the Petit...if only they knew what they were missing over here.

P5. On the 5th pitch, there was little more loose rock and hollow holds, so be a little more cautious. From the top of #5, it's a very simple scramble to the summit. Ok, I was roped up, so what? But honestly, it's probably class 2 to the top from here.

The top has a great view of the surrounding area. Also, a little less comforting, look down through the boulders on the summit on the west side. I swear I saw daylight through there. Anyway, head southeast from the summit and down a little gully to rap rings. There are 3 50-60 meter raps to the top of the Gash here. The rap rings looked pretty good. Don't forget to bring a second rope or you'll be downclimbing. Also, there seems to be a lot of loose rock that gets knocked down when you toss your ropes on each rappel so be prepared to shout "ROCK!!" often to the people below and watch for more of it when you pull your ropes. That's it. Down the Gash to the trail. Hope you enjoy it. Also, I gave this a grade III, because it took us 13 hours, but we took a 2 mile detour by going to the south side first and then backtracking around to the north side. It's probably somewhere between a II and a III.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
5th pitch (we did the climb in 4 long pitches with 60m rope), July 18 2009.
5th pitch (we did the climb in 4 long pitches with...
BETA PHOTO
View from the top.
View from the top.
Climbers on the first pitch of the NE ridge.
Climbers on the first pitch of the NE ridge.
Here's a pic of anchors on top of Sharkstooth.  <br />Three old pins backed up with a chock stone.   <br />Rap station is on N.E. side of the summit.
Here's a pic of anchors on top of Sharkstooth.
Th...
Nathan seconding second pitch while marmots rifle through our packs below.
Nathan seconding second pitch while marmots rifle ...
The offwidth crack on the 4th pitch.
The offwidth crack on the 4th pitch.
Chris approaching the face
Chris approaching the face
One of the rap anchor... it's "ok".
One of the rap anchor... it's "ok".
Scoping out the route from near the top of the Gash
Scoping out the route from near the top of the Gas...
The route follows the buttress in the sunlight on the left. Two false summits are on the route.
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the buttress in the sunlight on ...
Chris Sheridan, Nathan Feaver & Kristen Feaver heading into the Gash
Chris Sheridan, Nathan Feaver & Kristen Feaver hea...
Tony Bubb "leads" (solos) up the narrowing ridge of the route, headed for another spacious belay ledge. Photo by Sarah Shull, 1996.
Tony Bubb "leads" (solos) up the narrowing ridge o...
Lou and Tom getting ready to start up the Sharkstooth on a bluebird day.
Lou and Tom getting ready to start up the Sharksto...
General Sketch of the route
BETA PHOTO: General Sketch of the route
Start of the 4th pitch.
Start of the 4th pitch.
CMS guide Roy Leggett starting the next to last pitch on Sharkstooth Northeast Ridge route.
CMS guide Roy Leggett starting the next to last pi...
June 27th, 2009 in the late evening.
June 27th, 2009 in the late evening.
Bob Lewis approaching the first bench belay.
Bob Lewis approaching the first bench belay.
Coming down.
Coming down.
Bonnie Von Grebe on the Northeast Ridge, circa 1993.
Bonnie Von Grebe on the Northeast Ridge, circa 199...
Near the top.
Near the top.
Sharkstooth NE Ridge. Start marked.
BETA PHOTO: Sharkstooth NE Ridge. Start marked.
Climbers on the NE Ridge, as viewed from the summit of the Petit Grepon.
Climbers on the NE Ridge, as viewed from the summi...
Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2014
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jul 31, 2001

On the third pitch there is a nice 5.8, or 9ish?? variation. From the second belay, cruise around to the right, traversing for about 10 feet or so, to where you are more on the wall facing the approach path then on the left which is kinda the line of the route. In other words, you come out more onto the North?? face... Ok, the rock is sorta round, but, after you traverse around, just past the sight of your belayer, you should see a left facing dihedral kinda thing. Take this up through the interesting little overlap (undercling it) which would probably take a cam if your brought any (this climb easily gets sowed up with hexes, and nuts). Belay on a ledge a short ways after the overlap. From here, you can easily join the normal route(s). Granted, there is a ton of variations to go on this route, and you can just head up till your at the top, but, this (un-obvious) variation gives you some wicked exposure on the steeper North?? face...

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 29, 2001

Overall, a great route. Only a few spots of loose rock keep this climb from getting three stars. Leaders should be prepared to run things out a bit and, especially on the first pitch, there can be some route finding issues. The crux felt harder than 5.6. Have fun. Stan

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 14, 2002

If you happen to look up and see some slings hanging down on the first pitch, you are likely too far right. Done that, had to traverse left a bunch. Start can be tough to figure out 1st try.

By Speers
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 1, 2002

Great Climb! Wonderful exposure for a moderate climb. Warning: The little marmot farts will eat your food and your boots if you leave them laying around. They can unzip zippers! Have fun!

By Brendan Sheehan
Jul 5, 2002

did this route on 7-5-02. Great route, spots of 5.6 scattered along the first four pitches. The rock is somewhat broken and grabbing large but disconected blocks is common. A couple such blocks shifted and it was pretty alarming. Anyway, testing all such handholds before commiting to them could definately prevent an injury. Also, it's easy to knock off softball sized rocks on the ascent and the rap route, and they just go screaming down the route smashing into things harder and harder as they pick up speed. Great route, but loose holds and rockfall are major issues.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 20, 2002

Descent comment: The 2nd rap described by Rossiter seemed to be gone 7/18/2. Saw the ledge. Recalled the spot. But no 2nd rap station.

We used the rap just below the S end of the summit block with 3 pins (one is blue), 180' (though the end of this is 3rd class with big exposure) to a big block with multiple slings and an old pin. Here, we rapped 195' (past 2 less solid appearing rap slings) to a rap station on the R side of the gully with a pin, chockstone, and a Wild Country Rock. From here, it was short rap down to the Gash that a Marmot easily scrambled up and past.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2002

Marmots may ransack your packs if you leave them at the base. Hang your food, or bring it all with you.

This is a great route, although there is no single line and routefinding can be tricky. But I think it deserves classic status.

By Nick Kuhn
May 26, 2003

The crux probably lies in a left-facing dihedral on the third pitch. This 15ft. section should be easily recognizable with the labored breathing and the two fixed nuts that were there as of late August 2002.

The last pitch is easy but memorable...truly spectacular.

Check those rappel pins before you weight them. Albert Ellingwood himself may have bashed those in....

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2003

I think that routefinding is the crux on this route! It certainly is not that obvious where to go. Rossiter's topo is useful but we still weren't sure we were in the right place. Don't get too stressed out if what you see doesn't match the description - there are many variations possible.

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Jul 13, 2004

The route was good because of the cool exposure but personally, I felt the rock quality was poor. There was loose stuff everywhere. Not to mention the lichen and moss. There is a distinct possibility that we were slightly off route on some of the pitches. As far as the descent, we made 3 raps off of sharkstooth, then 4 more in the East Gully, then headed over to the south face of the petit where we located our first rap station. The 2d rap station that we found, our 60m rope fell about 30' short of the next rap. My partner rigged another station with some red webbing and green cord so that a 60m rope will now suffice. Overall, the climbing was fun. The gorgeous approach is very moderate except the scree to the base of the climb. We got a late start and thankfully, the weather was perfect from sun-up and beyond. But, because of our late start and getting lost on the descent, we missed the last bus!!!! Hiking the road back was soooooo annoying! Every time we saw a reflector on the barrels along the road, we'd have false hopes that we'd soon see a sign for the parking lot.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 30, 2004

Can the descent be done comfortably with one rope?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Descent with 1 rope? True, I've done it a few times that way. Odds are, 1 rope is better than 2 most of the way, as you will have it tied to your back, not be on rap. That said, there are some technical moves and some loose rock, and some will be more comfortable rapping off. I think 1 rope should be just fine for this, if you are cautious and watchful- there are plent of anchors or anchor opportunities in the notct, just take a little extra webbing, which you might want for replacing existing ones anyway. Worst that can happen is you lose 2 nuts and some webbing if you put in an extra station somewhere- and that's what, $18? Heck, I'd risk that not to carry the extra rope.

Then again... should you climb alpine with a single rope? Depends on you and your skill level, but in any case it is a separate question to consider.

By nolteboy
Jun 20, 2005

The position and exposure on this route are indeed easthetic, but the shattered nature of the rock means lots of loose stuff.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 31, 2005

My partner pulled out the blue pin at the first rappel station with just a little tug, that kinda sketched us out...we pounded it back in...but [don't] trust that pin. On the left somebody has slung a small chockstone as a back up, I pulled on that with some force and the chock snapped in half...I [wouldn't] trust whats left of that either. We [decided] to build our own chockstone as a back up so we slung a large chock in the wide crack on the right with webbing, still seems kinda marginal...so rapping from here is basically putting most of all your faith into those two old rusted pins, which seem pretty strong, but they are certainly old. If any of this makes you feel uncomfortable be prepared to deal with it. The 2nd and 3rd stations seemed bomber to us.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2005

My partner and I attempted to climb this ridge on 8/17/05, but we were unfortunately chased off by storms that arrived earlier than expected. In order to get off the rock, we had to rap the route leaving gear behind as we did. If anyone finds this gear please e-mail me, nduncan@purdue.edu, I am willing to reward anyone returning this lost gear as well.

Gear Lost:We started under the fixed rap slings (a red and a super faded orange). About half a rope length above the slings there should be a #2 and a #3 C4 Camalot with a 4 foot red and white runner connecting them. Another half rope length up there should be a 3 piece anchor with a red and pink tricam and a #1 C4 Camalot. Above this is the crux, and where I bailed off a fixed Alien (or Alien look-alike). Above the anchor and below the fixed Alien we lost a #.75 Camalot (not C4) a #0 and #1 TCU. Also lost but not as important are #s 2, 4, and 7 Wallnuts.

Anything returned is appreciated.

Noah Duncan

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 14, 2006

If you are going to take one rope, take a 70m. It seems to be the perfect length on all of the raps.

By Andy Leach
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 6, 2006

I climbed The Sharkstooth's Northeast Ridge on July 3, 2006.

Trip Report: www.leachfam.com/securearea/1story.php?storyid=53
Photos: www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=14>>>
Movie: www.leachfam.com/securearea/1movie.php?movieid=19

By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 16, 2006

Great route, on superb stone, worth the grueling approach, if you have great weather like we did..a blue bird day. We set up a bivy down in the gash and were right behind a CMS guided party of three the next morning at our 6:45 start. However, Roy Leggett did an outstanding job of guiding his clients, and we never waited long and enjoyed their company.

This route has excellent position and has good, sustained climbing at the grade (5.5 & 6) the entire way. The crux was probably a short layback off a flake on P2. There is loose rock, but generally solid. In the crack 10' off the ground on the last roped pitch, beware of a large, oblong stone. It came off when I touched it and was in my lap. I was able to settle it back where it had been, only because I had a good stance, or I would be on crutches right now.

I would do this route again tomorrow under similiar conditions...real nice climb.

By Kevin Craig
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Doesn't get much better than this. Stellar alpine granite, awesome position, heinous approach/descent - Alpine! Brilliant! Thank you! We seem to have followed Rossiter's topo and pitch description pretty closely and felt the crux was a small roof with a crack just above the "inset" that Rossiter describes on P2. We started just left of the R-facing dihedral to the left of the route drawn in the beta photo. This leads past a rather large, old piton and up to a good belay ledge right below the inset. Done this way, P3 is definitely not the crux and climbs the left side of a left-facing flake system. The crack moves on P2 felt pretty close to the difficulty of the Bastille Crack (if only for a few moves), so I'd give the roue a 5.7 (minus?). The pro can be run out in spots (esp. P5), but the climbing is usually easy in those spots.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2007

My partner and I thought we'd save time going up the gully just below the route, BAD IDEA! It's loose as hell, and there's no easy way up it. We wasted a good 30 minutes trying to find a way up it before we gave up and practically slid down again.

By Frederic Regis
Jun 29, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First pitch was very wet and not that fun on June 29th, 2009 (too shaky for me). All the other pitches were mostly all dry and very fun.

We used crampons in the morning to get to the first pitch but the snow is very soft in the afternoon. Still lots of snow up there which makes for great glissading at the end of the day!

By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Jul 9, 2009

Has anyone been up to the NE ridge recently?-wonder if any more of the snow has melted with all this warm weather... are crampons necessary?

By Laura Pyle
From: Evergreen, CO
Jul 19, 2009

As of July 19, crampons are not necessary for the approach. There are several large snowfields to cross and the snow is pretty hard in early morning, but we managed to do it in running shoes. Wonderful route - some loose rock of course, but generally good quality, and diverse, aesthetic climbing. In my opinion, better than the standard route on the Petit.

By Jack C Swift
From: Evergreen, CO
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Can someone please describe the best place to bivy in the Gash? Last year my partner and I slept under a large boulder (barely enough room head to foot for two) just off of the trail before you take a left, through the boulder field, toward the Sharkstooth.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 21, 2009

As of 8/20/2009 you could have definitely rapped off good stations with a single 70m. We carried leaver slings/nuts but it wasn't necessary. The normal rap stations are in good shape.

By Joe Brannan
From: Erie, CO
Sep 8, 2009

This was a great route. The route is a ridge route, despite the pictures here making it look more like a face. It starts out broad and narrows. Just head straight up from the start following fun features, don't trend left or right, routefinding seemed trivial. Stick to the ridge proper on the final pitch for some great exposure. The bivy sights in the Gash are amoung very large boulders just before you reach the main headwall cliff.

By worleybird
Sep 19, 2009

Just wondering if I need to get a permit to bivy near the Sharkstooth.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 19, 2009

Yes, you need a permit to bivy anywhere in RMNP.

By worleybird
Sep 25, 2009

I need to know the best bivy spots for the Northeast Ridge on the Sharkstooth. I know that it is going to be very cold, but a friend and I have put together a trip up the route the first weekend of October.

By Casey Flynn
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

As of June 23rd, one single 60m rope was NOT enough to do the raps. The first and third raps are fine with a single 60m. The second single rope rap deposits you on a a little ledge. Some exposed 4th class down climbing will bring you to a slung boulder with two biners on it. I left that stuff behind on June 23rd and now the route can be rapped with a single 60m. It would be best if someone brought a section of long cordelette and backed up my slings, if they could.

By Carl Dowdy
From: Golden, CO
Oct 4, 2010

Great route. Reached the top in 3 pitches with a 70m. The first and last pitch really use the full rope, and the middle one comes close. Only a few spots were a little sketch with approach shoes. Bring your nuts.

By Igneous
From: Murray, KY
Aug 22, 2011

Climbed this on August 8, 2011 and had an awesome time. This was my first alpine route, and I would definitely recommend it.

It bears repeating to be careful of loose rock!

The best bivy spots are located in a flat(ish) spot about a quarter mile into The Gash after leaving the main trail. Look for a huge boulder, and you will find several good spots scattered around it.

We did the rappel with a 60 meter rope and it worked alright, but I would recommend bringing some extra webbing. I had to build my own rap station after the second rappel.

By Nick Venechuk
From: Golden, CO
Aug 22, 2011

Not much to add about the actual route, although it is excellent, or rock quality (yes there's some loose stuff; it's an alpine route). Some planning comments though: it took us three hours to the base of the route, moving at a quick but sustainable pace, and four hours from the base to the summit. The rappels can be done with a single 70m rope.

By jjjust
Jan 2, 2012

By ErikaNW
Jul 16, 2012

Super fun route. With the non existent snowpack this year the boulder field was pretty heinous with some interesting scrambling to clear the grassy rock band ledges. So basically it took us 2 hrs to hike the first 4 1/2 miles and 2 hrs to cover the last mile of boulders - not fun! Something to keep in mind for planning on a super dry year.

By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 18, 2012

My Blog

Climbed yesterday in 12.5 h c2c. Left the trail head at 3 (we had to drive back to Texas that day) and started climbing a few minutes before 7. We had a quick pace until we reached the gash and got off route in the darkness causing our scramble up the talus to be unnecessarily brutal.

At the end of the first rope stretching pitch I had ventured too far to the right causing us to have to do a 30m traverse up and left to gain the standard route. Try to tend left at the end of the first pitch to avoid this nuisance. Overall, however route finding is very easy on this climb as long as you have a decent since of where you're going.

We continued up on beautiful granite and spectacular exposure to the summit about 3:15 after we started the first pitch. We spent 45 min on top taking pictures and enjoying the breathtaking views of RMNP.

About the rappel:
We easily located the first rap anchor which consists of about 3 old pitons and 2 nuts. The webbing connecting all these pieces looks a bit old so we left another sling on one of the pitons and called it good.

A 57m rap takes to the next anchor which consists of a slung block (and a piton or nut I can't remember which) Though the block looks a bit smaller than we would have liked, it is wedged deeply behind a huge chunk of the cliff and seemed pretty darn secure.

Another 60m rap brings you to a large ledge where you can scramble over to the next anchor on the climbers right side of the gully. This anchor consists of some pitons and a nut and seemed pretty good though the webbing looked like it could use replacing.

From here, a 29m rappel will bring you nicely to the top of the Gash.

Also, the marmots here are vicious vermon. They ate most of the cork off our trekking poles and nibbled a bit on my guide tennis (they carried one about 15 ft away from where I had placed it.

By BoulderCharles
Aug 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The climbing on The Sharkstooth is really good and should be on your RMNP to-do list. For what it's worth, I would recommend being comfortable on 5.7 terrain as there are a few moves I found to be stiff for the 5.6 rating.

Went up on 8/5. On the way down, we cleaned up the rap stations a bit. We backed up webbing at the first station (the three pins looked good, the nuts are no longer there). The second section looked good. We also backed up the third station (nut, chockstone, and pin looked good). Note that the third rap station is a bit hard to see (the cord blends into the rock). It's a full 60 meters down from the 2nd station and then the 3rd rap station is to the rappeller's right (towards the NE Ridge). Didn't check the intermediate stations for single-rope raps.

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

You must do this climb. Once. The approach via vast boulderfields of dishwashers and microwaves will keep you from going back, but ... the actual climb was just about everything you could ask from alpine. Exposed, altitude, length, and great scenery. Real moves for a 5.6. The huge bivy boulder is past the last trees - past the first smooth, partial, cliff band by 100 yds or so, and there is water near it. Route-finding was easy, pro was good. This thing was designed to be climbed.

By Canon
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The approach and descent are not nearly as bad as I was expecting. Not sure how you could get off route on the approach unless you didn't scramble up around to the left to get to the grassy ledge where the first pitch starts and instead went up the snow apron at the base. We had 2x60m ropes and used both for one of the raps - in retrospect, the second rope was not essential. Great route.

By The Blueprint Part Dank
From: FEMA Region VIII
Jun 24, 2013

I found the route to be no harder than 5.6. However, I wouldn't recommend it to the average 5.6 trad leader simply because the gear at the anchors was anything but straightforward. It took a lot of creativity to make bomb proof belays. A #4 C4 would have been nice for the belay at the top of P3.

By A0hero
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 30, 2013

Northeast Ridge var?
Northeast Ridge var?

Does anyone know if this large, right-facing dihedral (green) is part of the standard Northeast Ridge route? It kinda matches the P3 description, but I thought it felt much harder than 5.6 when I climbed it. Just curious.

By AndrewFH
From: Erie, PA
Aug 31, 2013

Did this route late August of 2013. Be cautious of what you're pulling on as there is some loose stuff, but you can always find a bomber alternative. Keep in mind this was rated a 5.6 when 5.9 was the hardest, it did feel a bit stiff and more like 5.7 on a few spots. Really great route and fun/ easy/ exposed climbing on the last 2 pitches. We had a party of 3 with 2 ropes, but I would recommend only bringing one rope 60-70m for the rap for parties of 2 as there were numerous stations on the way down.

By Eddie Farrell
From: Boulder, co
Jun 4, 2014

The dihedral to climber's right on pitch 3 felt more like 5.7, everything else was solid 5.6 on great rock. Route finding and anchors were pretty straightforward, just follow the ridge and climb what looks good, and belay on awesome ledges. The rappels were pretty straightforward (we had a 60m and a 60m pull cord that we tagged), and the anchors held me and my partner no problem. However, the pin rings at the first rap did not inspire too much confidence, and the third/last rap... the way the slings are equalized almost all of the weight is on the chockstone. We did it in 6 pitches, never placed anything bigger than a #3, and were c2c in 11 hours without much rush. Have fun, it's a great route.

By Nick Pinto
2 days ago

Climbed this 7/27/14. We had a wet bivy at the Gash the night before -- there were a few nice flat spots but not much shelter to speak of. We brought axes for the snowfield in the Gash, but could have gotten by without them. No issue getting up it in approach shoes, and a slip (with the line we took) would have been totally inconsequential due to the low angle and few rocks. We traversed left at the first ledge and cruised up the grass and rocks to the upper boulder field. We were the first party on the climb at 6:15am. Found the climbing to be generally easy and fun, with sweet exposure on the upper pitches. After the left-facing dihedral on P3, I stayed left and found some fun, exposed variations (5.8ish? - many options). Met back up with the route at the top of the pitch. On the summit at 10:20am. As others have said, the pitons on the first rap aren't too inspiring but seemed solid enough. The other two raps (we brought two ropes) were easy to find and had better looking anchors. Overall great route, the approach and prominence of the Tooth made it feel more serious than the actual climbing was.

Also, after looking at it, linking Petit Grepon and the Sharkstooth could make for a sweet day. May come back for that.