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 ADVANCED
North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Grace T 
East Lark T 
El Dorado T 
El Grandote T 
El Monte T 
El Whampo T 
Elegant Arch T 
Grace Slick T 
Hard Lark T 
Northeast Face East T 
Northeast Face West T 
Northeast Farce T 
Partners in Crime T 
Too Biased T 
West Lark T 

Northeast Farce 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don Wilson and Jerry Gallwas, September 1954
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Route-finding on this climb is not too obvious after the first two pitches. Start in the huge, right-facing dihedral at the left end of the North Face. After about 120 feet, traverse right on small face holds to reach a large crack and easier climbing. Work upwards for several more pitches (no obvious landmarks) to reach the Northeast Shoulder.

Protection 

Gear up to 4 inches.


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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Just climbed this yesterday and call it 5.7R. The first pitch is long; 180'. My guess is the FA party did it in 2 pitches (you pass 2 fp's). Save some big cams for the first belay.

Traversing from the first belay to the 5.1 crack involves a few no-hands slab moves: if you fall here you will pendo across low angle rock, off an ancient fixed pin. Did not see the bolt shown on the guide topo. Did see an old one ~10' right of the 5.1 crack; off route.

Pitches 3 & 4 have some aesthetic slab traverses with good pro.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Jul 18, 2010

I mostly concur with the above comment. The no hands traverse was fun would have been more exciting if it was longer, but got your attention pretty fast. The top two pitches are great. Fairly sustained 5.6 climbing IMHO. I don't think this climb deserves an 'R' modifier. The pro is maybe non-obvious in situations but nothing too crazy. Did not see bolt either.
By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2014

The topo in the guide book doesn't quite scale as to how far you need to go in the dihedral. The traverse should start on a decent foot ledge with a piton in the middle at foot level. The traverse does go no hands for a move or two but is pretty chill.
From the top of the wide crack on P2 you should go more or less straight up passing two old bolts just right of a flake.