Northeast Face  5.9

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Coliver, Keller, Waller, Lichtman - August 1966 Season:  Early to Late Summer Submitted By:  Chris Owen on Aug 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Schematic - the way we went and nothing more.

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Description 

Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.
P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.
P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.
P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.
P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.
P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.
P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.
P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.
P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.
P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.

Location 

Left of 2 sloping ledges on the NE face.

Protection 

Standard rack with large cams for last pitch, ice-axe seasonal.

Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow

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Jonathan Bowman pulls up to the little ledge at th...