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California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
Northeast Face
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
Routes in 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mark Powell, Frank Sacherer and Bob Kamps, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 4,040 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Feb 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Your first goal is to reach the notch (from the east) between the Lower Cathedral Spire and Church Tower. This is 3rd-4th class, and if you do this unroped, don't fall. If you rope up, the biggest problem is the rope knocking loose rocks onto the belayer. Be careful, helmets recommended!
From the notch another 4th class pitch continues to the base of a steep vertical wall. The next three pitches are each rated 5.9. Follow a left facing corner up through an overhanging slot and find a small ledge on the left to belay. P2: above lies a large left facing dihedral, the first ascent followed a crack on the left face. Better, follow the dihedral itself, which is 3-4" wide the whole way (Pratt-Faint variation).
P3: traverse right to a strenuous vertical crack, crank up this short move (crux), follow a ramp past a scary loose flake and continue more easily to the top. This pitch also has a variation to the left up a right facing corner (Fredericks-Sacherer variation, looks more strenuous). Continue to the summit via one more 4th class pitch.
With 60m ropes, probably some of the crux pitches can be combined.
From the notch another 4th class pitch continues to the base of a steep vertical wall. The next three pitches are each rated 5.9. Follow a left facing corner up through an overhanging slot and find a small ledge on the left to belay. P2: above lies a large left facing dihedral, the first ascent followed a crack on the left face. Better, follow the dihedral itself, which is 3-4" wide the whole way (Pratt-Faint variation).
P3: traverse right to a strenuous vertical crack, crank up this short move (crux), follow a ramp past a scary loose flake and continue more easily to the top. This pitch also has a variation to the left up a right facing corner (Fredericks-Sacherer variation, looks more strenuous). Continue to the summit via one more 4th class pitch.
With 60m ropes, probably some of the crux pitches can be combined.
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