Northeast Face of Warrior I 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Beckey, Ripley 1962 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Dulberger on Aug 13, 2007 |
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liz donley on warrior1, beckey route.
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Route Description This is a bit of an adventure climb, I will describe it as best I recall, but we certainly followed our noses a bit.
Once in the Warrior I basin (a bit to the north/left of the peak), we scrambled up the grassy ledges rightward. Eventually, we were cliffed out and roped up:
P1 & P2: Follow chossy ramp system angling up and right (5.5ish maybe). We did this in 2 pitches, with a bit of simulclimbing, to a large ledge.
P3: The wall becomes more imposing and the route is not obvious here. The route is supposed to "use thin holds for 30 ft, then cross a slab to the left and climb a crack..." I climbed straight up into a dirty unprotected flake system (scary 10 and my second ripped off a nub and fell here), then traversed right on decent holds . There seemed to be other variations, either left or right of that line, presumably they are safer and a lot easier. There is an obvious niche about 120 ft up, that I did find without trouble.
P4. Out of the niche there are two obvious cracks, we went for the right of them, which wound up being wide and strenuous (9+). At the top, there was a good belay.
P5. The next pitch went up corner crack of a large block, to a nice landing area, which is tempting to belay on - but better to push on and extend the pitch, gaining the summit of the smaller pillar.
P6. The "solitary crack in the headwall" - this is the pitch you can fight over. 100 ft of 2 - 3" crack to a slab, at the top of which you can belay.
P7. We exited right, which was an awkward escape from the slab followed by a short step down, then 25 ft of ow/chimney. Then to the summit...
Descent was straight-forward, rapping down (2 ropes) to the climbers-left of the route.
Warrior I as seen from north of camp.
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This is the gorgeous 6th pitch which ascends from ...
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BETA PHOTO: This is roughly the line, but realize that the fir...
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BETA PHOTO: The first 5 pitches ascend the smaller tower on th...
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Warbonnet, Warrior I and Warrior II
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warrior I
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| Comments on Northeast Face of Warrior I |
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By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Aug 14, 2007
| I got my full value adventure out of this one! I got off route on a pitch that put me on a very dirty 5.10R-X slab. The route climbs a very obvious gully-dihedral that leads to a large pedistal below the headwall where the real climbing starts. It's a good route, but I don't think it gets four stars. |
By Josh Dulberger
Aug 20, 2007
| Was that roughly the 3rd pitch? I also got off route before the open book with the "strenuous crack" - climbed yellowish loose and scary flakes that were 10ish and R/Xish (R in the backcountry may as well be X). The route stays to the left there, starts off in some grassy dihedral that is supposed to get better and be clean.
I am going to post a full description soon - just need to get back to my notes. |
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Nov 19, 2007
| Yeah, it was about the third pitch. I think i remember looking down at the grassy crack system that your talking about thinking that I should have taken that. |
By Alec
Jul 7, 2009
| Sweet description. Very informative |
By colin tuck
From: Laramie
Jul 21, 2009
| the point of this page is??? |
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 25, 2011
rating: 5.9+
| ya, adventurish for sure, but i recall some pretty obvious and secure climbing, until that headwall splitter petered out for some reachy moves high above a purple C3. I believe that the headwall pitch was the physical and psychological crux, and the chimney below it was easier, not 9+...
| headwall pitch, Warrior 1 (5.9)
Submitted By: T. Gittins on Feb 11, 2011
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By matt j hartman
From: lander, wy
Sep 5, 2011
| Seems like every route description is a bit different for this one! My advice is to bring a 70 meter rope. The route makes more sense this way.
p-1 climb easy rock to rap anchor.
p-2 stretch rope to next rap anchor below "face hold traverse pitch"
p-3 right from rap anchor climb up cracks and face, traverse left after 40 feet or so and go left on thin, grassy ledge to splitter corner. climb past the small "horn" described by Kelsey and top the pitch to a grassy ledge. We had to simul with a 60 meter for about 20 feet. this pitch is well protected and quite good.
p-4 climb cracks and chimney for a ropelength to the base of the money pitch.
p-5 climb the money pitch, belay after a 100'
p-6 move right of the belay over a slab into hands. climb to the bad looking rap anchor and move right around the corner. this is not obvious, but do it. going straight up (the most logical choice) leaves one on top of a loose pillar looking at a dirty slab and pegmatite traverse (my stopper is up there if you want it). The moves around the corner from the rap anchor are exposed and awesome. belay in alcove after 150 feet.
p-7 climb cracks to the top for a ropelength. Be careful on 1st rap for loose rocks on the ledge just below. raps are straight forward.
This route is pretty awesome. if you are a 5.9 leader, i suggest the minor on haystack or ecclesiastes on mitchell to cut your teeth on. I am not one to rerate climbs, but it has "Beckey" and "Warrior" in the name........
Matt Hartman
Lander, Wy. |
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