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Warbonnet Peak
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Black Elk 
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feather buttress 
Northeast Face, Left 
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Northeast Face, Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1100', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 883
Submitted By: Kevin D. on Sep 6, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4. Left half a set of chocks bailing off P5....

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A nice route on the imposing NE face of Warbonnet. Beware of loose rock, both on the approach and on the route itself. The views of the Cirque from the summit are spectacular.


Approach via the northern gully leading to the saddle between The Plume and Warbonnet. There was still snow/ice in the gully in late August, but it can be avoided by 3rd-4th class on either side. Beware of loose rock on the approach, which turned out to be longer than we expected. It is also possible to make the approach from the other side of The Plume.

To descend, head down the moderate slope south towards Sundance Pinnacle, following a faint trail where possible, until you reach the low point between Warbonnet and Sundance. Here you go left through talus until you reach the climber's pass trail back to the Cirque.


Standard rack up to 3".

Photos of Northeast Face, Left Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 4. Left half a set of chocks bailing off P5. April snow made for a committing climb. Trip report: rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/04/wind-rivers-cirque-of-towers->>>
Pitch 4. Left half a set of chocks bailing off P5....
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