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 ADVANCED
North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Grace T 
East Lark T 
El Dorado T 
El Grandote T 
El Monte T 
El Whampo T 
Elegant Arch T 
Grace Slick T 
Hard Lark T 
Northeast Face East T 
Northeast Face West T 
Northeast Farce T 
Partners in Crime T 
Too Biased T 
West Lark T 

Northeast Face East 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don Wilson and Royal Robbins, September 1954
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jun 19, 2014

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Description 

Fun, moderate romp.
Not described in full in the guidebook this route follows an obvious crack system up the N. Face then splits into a choose your own adventure sort of thing.

P1 Follow cracks into left facing corner. Belay bolts can be found on top of the corner on the right, finish of Grace Slick 10b.

P2 Go straight up into right facing corner to obvious ledge.

P3 Continue up right facing corner with two pins in it. You can go left for jugs and better pro but a R slab crux comes getting back into the crack just after passing the small roof. #4 C4 helpful here. At a pointy junction go right and straight up over the roofs to a nice bolted belay.

P4 Trend right until you must turn a blind corner and step down into the right facing dihedral of Northeast Face West. Belay under roof or head up to a belay just over the roof.

P5 Easy climbing to the top.

Location 

Next crack system right of the large roof, right of El Grandote.

Protection 

Pro to 3", #4 C4 helpful.


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By hjaved
Jul 17, 2014

Did the route in May 2014. Sustained route. 5.6-5.7. The guidebook wasn't helpful so we went off track. Fun route!