Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Donald Duck
Select Route:
Cha Cha, The T,TR 
Northeast Corner T 

Northeast Corner 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Larry Kline, Keith Wrolstad, Summer of Love
Page Views: 1,640
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Standing on the duck's bill. "The Fire Hydrant" i...

Description 

This excellent line is one of the best easy pitches in the Sandias, and with a killer summit to boot!

Begin on the NE side of the tower, below a beautiful red dihedral. Jam the stellar corner (mostly hands) for 60 feet with perfect pro. When the corner peters out, traverse right a few feet to easier ground and corkscrew up to the summit.

There is no fixed gear on the summit, but its easy to scramble down the S side of the pillar.


Location 

NE corner of Donald Duck.


Protection 

Gear to 3 inches, mostly hand-sized.



Photos of Northeast Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Monkeying-around on Donald Duck
Monkeying-around on Donald Duck
This is what we went up.  I think it's the NE corner.  It has solid rock and continuous pro.  It felt like 5.8 to me, but maybe I just suck.
BETA PHOTO: This is what we went up. I think it's the NE corn...
Comments on Northeast Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fritz Devendorf
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Aug 31, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We attempted this one but got rained out. For a 5.6 rating it seemed a bit pumpy, maybe I missed something. Estrellita at 5.8 is easier.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 13, 2008

Did this the other day. Super cool and right by the trail. Don't bother bringing anything small. #1 - #3 Camalots would be nice. Maybe 2 #3 if you want to sew it up. Don't bother with a #4. Good rock except for the loose stuff.

By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There are a couple of different big red dihedrals/open books on the north/northeast side; some are pretty brushy, and I was about to start up the wrong one until my partner saw the correct route, which is a shallower, clean dihedral on the (climber's) left end of the northeast side. Bulletproof stone! I used 2 #3 C4's and a #4 as well.
It looks like people are rapping off a slung aspen on the east side? Not sure why, because the downclimb off the south side is still perfectly viable, except maybe the easiest line has been blocked by the top of a dead aspen that fell onto the 3rd class route. There's still an easy 4th class downclimb around that, though.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jun 11, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Felt pretty hard for 5.6, unless we went up the wrong dihedral (see my photo). Felt more like 5.8 to me. Oh well... I would not want to go up this as a beginner leader thinking it's super mellow. There is plenty of gear though so...

Rack suggestions:
You don't need any small cams, but I placed maybe a .3 and a .4 somewhere. You can place lots of #1's 2's and 3's. I could have used 4 #1's if I'd had them. You can place a #4, so if you decide to bring it you'll find a place for it.

A good climb with solid rock. Only one pitch but the summit is pretty fun. The downclimb to the south is not bad at all.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The broken-off part of the dead aspen has been removed. Can descend on either side of the part of the tree that is currently standing.

I agree about having lots of hand-sized pieces. Of BD C4's, I had two #1's, three #2's, and two #3's. I used them all. Could have used a #4 near the top of the vertical line.

By Karl Kiser
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The climb indeed takes doubles of red/gold/blue Camalots. But a set of hexes (9-11) on cord lightens the rack. One can place a few medium cams on the route and at the anchor below Donald Duck. The rating is old school and is actually a little harder but part of the divergence of opinion relates to the crack characteristics of the climb.

By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 28, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

There would be no shame in upgrading this pitch. NE Corner was my second climb in the Sandias. In 1974 my partner & I came across a mutual friend (Paul Seibert) who had just led it. His wife (Linda) could not follow. I graciously volunteered thinking it would be at least a good warmup for our own project that day, Mexican Breakfast Crack. Instead it darn near ruined my self esteem for that second ascent. At the top Paul suggested it was a tad harder than 5.6. And I timidly agreed. 5.8- seems a reasonable rating against a potential sandbag....