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Bear Creek Spire
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North Face 
Northeast Corner 

Northeast Corner 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: George Bell on Nov 6, 2001
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  • Description 

    Don't let the rating on this route fool you into taking it too casually, this is a scary route to free solo, especially considering you have to go down it too. This route [may be] closed Feb 1 to Aug 1.

    This route is on the right side of the northeast face, it reaches the summit ridge just south of the summit near a large pine tree. The route follows a crack/corner system that drops straight down from this pine tree. Start the route quite high up, only 150' or so below the saddle north of Bear Creek Spire, and traverse south (left) into the crack system. If you start lower down you will encounter 5.6 climbing.

    The climb now consists of sections of dirt and trees alternating with friable rock covered by pine needles. The crux is a section of small roofs, consider carefully how you are going to downclimb this while going up. After you reach the big tree and ridge, there are still a few exciting exposed moves to reach the summit. I would have rated this route 5.4, but probably it was all the friable rock and dirt that was freaking me out.

    Downclimb the route (or if you were smart and brought a rope, rappel the route from trees).


    Protection 

    Standard rack with long slings for trees.



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