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A proud line to the summit of Sundance Pinnacle. The crux splitter finger crack on the NE face/arete is visible as you begin the climb to north lake.
The base of the route is accessed by 400ft of 4th and easy 5th class scrambling to a right facing 5.8 corner below the giant right corner offwidth. Ascend this corner trending right to a large ledge, 5.8 140ft.
Climb a discontinouse crack system trending right to a nice right facing corner. Fire to the end of the crack and bust the Manley mantle. Clip the old button head bolt (yikes!) and traverse right (crux) to the splitter tips crack. Git your slab game face on and bring the rp's/offsets. Belay at the small ledge, 5.10b/c 180ft.
More tips to a hand traverse right and airy climbing to the summit (f&**ing rad), 5.10- 150ft.
Walkoff to the west and around to the north or south.
Doubles w/ baby cams and rp's/offsets
Last pitch 5.8 hand traverse
|Comments on Northeast Arete
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Great Climb with a little confusion about the 3rd of the upper pitches.
We followed the description provided by the Bechtel guide (Cirque of TheTowers & Deep Lake: A Select Guide to The Wind Rivers' Best Rock Climbs). The verbal description of the 5 main pitches was quite reasonable. However, the photograph in that guide and in the beta photo for Sundance Pinnacle on MP show the Northeast Arete and Right Crack as completely separate routes than never overlap. The way we ended up going using Bechtel for guidance had us overlap with Right Crack for perhaps 40 feet then stepping right and up to the stance below the Northeast Arete crux pitch. If you didn't traverse right we could climbed directly up the Right Crack splitter pitch. Have people climbed this such that they didn't end up briefly overlapping with Right Crack?
By my reckoning the upper pitches went. 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10-
| || |Route Taken
Submitted By: MarkJ on Aug 27, 2012