|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Greg Collins, Mal Miller, Reave Castenholtz 1982|
|Submitted By:||jyount on Jul 29, 2010|
|Comments on Northeast Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great Climb with a little confusion about the 3rd of the upper pitches.
We followed the description provided by the Bechtel guide (Cirque of TheTowers & Deep Lake: A Select Guide to The Wind Rivers' Best Rock Climbs). The verbal description of the 5 main pitches was quite reasonable. However, the photograph in that guide and in the beta photo for Sundance Pinnacle on MP show the Northeast Arete and Right Crack as completely separate routes than never overlap. The way we ended up going using Bechtel for guidance had us overlap with Right Crack for perhaps 40 feet then stepping right and up to the stance below the Northeast Arete crux pitch. If you didn't traverse right we could climbed directly up the Right Crack splitter pitch. Have people climbed this such that they didn't end up briefly overlapping with Right Crack?
By my reckoning the upper pitches went. 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10-