Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Achean Pronouncement
Select Route:
Dangling Fury S 
Dark Obsession T 
East Face/Achean Pronouncement T 
Electric Fountain Crack T,TR 
Lingum Direct T,TR 
Northeast Arete T 
Third Eye T 
Yoni T 

Northeast Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?)
Season: Faces E/NE, closed Feb-Aug.
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Some good climbing here. The climbing is much more than 230', but that is the amount of diversion from the standard East Face that one will encounter. One can break this into 2 pitches or do it in one on a 70M rope.

    From the twin trees 50' up the rock as for the route East Face, work out and right diagonally to the arete. Follow that up slabs cracks and corners, passing some looser flakes on the way up. There is less gear here in spots and some medium-runouts are unavoidable. Join the East Face route at a ledge on the top ridge with some good knuckle-sized cams, tricams, or tricky stoppers for a bomber belay.


    Location 

    From the first 'on-rock' belay of the Standard East Face, at the 2 trees, this route follows the right hand side of the East Face, on the arete, to the ledge up top, 230' away. This can barely be done with a 70M rope, but it would be easy to simul-climb a few feet....


    Protection 

    A standard rack from fingers to fist and plenty of long runners.



    Comments on Northeast Arete Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -