Northeast Arete  5.7 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?) Season:  Faces E/NE, closed Feb-Aug. Submitted By:  Tony B on Nov 18, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

Some good climbing here. The climbing is much more than 230', but that is the amount of diversion from the standard East Face that one will encounter. One can break this into 2 pitches or do it in one on a 70M rope.

From the twin trees 50' up the rock as for the route East Face, work out and right diagonally to the arete. Follow that up slabs cracks and corners, passing some looser flakes on the way up. There is less gear here in spots and some medium-runouts are unavoidable. Join the East Face route at a ledge on the top ridge with some good knuckle-sized cams, tricams, or tricky stoppers for a bomber belay.

Location 

From the first 'on-rock' belay of the Standard East Face, at the 2 trees, this route follows the right hand side of the East Face, on the arete, to the ledge up top, 230' away. This can barely be done with a 70M rope, but it would be easy to simul-climb a few feet....

Protection 

A standard rack from fingers to fist and plenty of long runners.