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Achean Pronouncement
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Northeast Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: R. Rossiter, Solo, (1980s?)
Season: Faces E/NE, closed Feb-Aug.
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 18, 2007
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  • Description 

    Some good climbing here. The climbing is much more than 230', but that is the amount of diversion from the standard East Face that one will encounter. One can break this into 2 pitches or do it in one on a 70M rope.

    From the twin trees 50' up the rock as for the route East Face, work out and right diagonally to the arete. Follow that up slabs cracks and corners, passing some looser flakes on the way up. There is less gear here in spots and some medium-runouts are unavoidable. Join the East Face route at a ledge on the top ridge with some good knuckle-sized cams, tricams, or tricky stoppers for a bomber belay.


    Location 

    From the first 'on-rock' belay of the Standard East Face, at the 2 trees, this route follows the right hand side of the East Face, on the arete, to the ledge up top, 230' away. This can barely be done with a 70M rope, but it would be easy to simul-climb a few feet....


    Protection 

    A standard rack from fingers to fist and plenty of long runners.



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