|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|FA:||R Rossiter & Lynn Householder, 1977|
|Submitted By:||Rog on Jun 8, 2002|
|Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Northeast Arete||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By shad O'Neel
Aug 1, 2002
|Super fun, climbing out on top of the wing was really fun. The crack adds spice to a great paddle.|
By James Garnett
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 5, 2003
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fun climb, but with some provisos. First, the first pitch is very run out. I got in one good piece, and that one was almost all the way to the first belay (maybe 20'-30' shy of it). I would say that warrants an "s" rating. A question on that first pitch, too: it is clearly the hardest thing on the route unless you do the 5.6 variant---so how is it a 5.5 climb if the crux is 5.4?
Second, there are two large blocky rocks jutting out that could act as the first belay; the first one is nice, comfortable, but only slightly past 30 meters up from our start at the high point of the north side. The second, which is definitely right at the end of a 60 meter rope, is a nasty belay for which I had no decent pro other than slinging a horn., and which is just plain uncomfortable. If you want to climb all the way up to it, you should bring the #5 Camalot (but I'd recommend doing it because it makes the next belay up easier).
Third, the rappel is shorter: about 20' of our 60 meter rope was on the ground at the base when nobody was weighting the line. We were concerned about a 100' rappel with a 60 meter rope and tied rappel knots in the end, but it ended up being unnecessary.
Finally, the rap bolts themselves are right on the edge of the summit ridge, at the base of a wall leading up to the summit. The "75' from the right edge of the summit" really got me confused; just keeping heading up and looking over the edge and you'll see them.
Now, whining aside, this was indeed a fun climb. Excellent slabby goodness on the first pitch! I'm only giving it one star, because it's not spectacular and I wouldn't go back unless my partner really wanted to do it; there's closer-in slabby goodness in the Flatirons that is more appealing.
First pitch is very run out. 5.5s.
From: Grand Junction
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
|I second the very run out comment. If you start right up the slabby stuff expect 100 feet of 5.4 to 5.5 runout. After that, the climbing eases and the pro increases. The finger crack is also 5.7 even if it is only for 20 or so feet.|