Working through the steep opening moves on Fruit L...
Description
This is an outstanding route that any leader will enjoy, even if it's below your normal lead level. It's almost three climbs in one: crack climbing; chimney; and face climbing. Many people skip the second pitch, but it's lots of fun and very worthwhile.
P1 - Start at a somewhat steep crack, working your way up with jams and some face holds. The going quickly gets easier/less steep, continue past some flake moves to the base of a chimney with bolted belay anchors (80').
P2 - Climb the chimney (well-protected), continuing until it begins to narrow, then make balancy moves out onto the face to the left. Continue up the low-angled face to the top (80').
Location
Starts just right of a big offwidth crack, about 50' right of Shredded Wheat. Rap from the slings/rap rings at the top.
Protection
Small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Bolted anchors at the belay, fixed slings/rap rings at the top.
The chimney is super awesome and I enjoyed it more than the 1st pitch. Worth doing even if you lead way harder. This route stays cool(ish) in the summer.
The second pitch of Fruit Loops isn't really worth it. If you don't want to lead Granola you can sneak over from the anchors on top of Fruit Loops. It'd be a helluva pendulum though. I took a lot of pictures and posted them on my blog. OnTheSharpEnd.com - Rumbling Bald Cereal Buttress
The first pitch is classic. The second is exposed and a little scary for the grade. Worth doing for the exposure and view of Lake Lure, but not really for the climb itself.
First pitch 5.7+ Very protect-able. I found the crux to be at about the 20 foot mark. Lots of fun. Defiantly one of my favorites. It started to rain and we weren't able to do the second pitch.
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