Sun Wall

Description 

If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail as for the Nose Area, then take a smaller trail off to the right after passing a switchback above a granite slab. Continue winding through the rhodos to finish at the base of Legendary Nuclear Bomb. Most of the Sun Wall routes are further to the right along the cliffside trail.

The Classics

Featured Route For Sun Wall

Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 5.9  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall

I am in the process of adding some routes that I have seen reported with some FA inaccuracies in the newest Selected Climbs of North Carolina guide book. "Titties and Beer" is an example of this. The Shull/Lambert guide reports Randy Mann was on the FA of this route when it was actually Ted Anderson who was on the FA. It is important to recognize Ted as the name for this route was inspired by Ted and comes from a Zappa song. Ted Anderson is a hug...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC