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Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 122
votes
Routes in Sun Wall
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Aerospace Cadet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Out T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Bouffant Curl T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Irish Jig T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Labia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Le Crimp T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Pump T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Legendary Nuclear Bomb, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Mainline Express T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Nick Danger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Odyssey, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out To Lunch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Paco Bell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pat Ewing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Predator T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prey T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Psychedelic Delusions of The Digital Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Ruby Tuesday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scotty Pippen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Titties and Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toxic Wasteland T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Two Legged Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Rad T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Rotert & Ted Anderson @1977 |
| Page Views: | 33,202 total · 152/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Rotert on Dec 22, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
I am in the process of adding some routes that I have seen reported with some FA inaccuracies in the newest Selected Climbs of North Carolina guide book. "Titties and Beer" is an example of this. The Shull/Lambert guide reports Randy Mann was on the FA of this route when it was actually Ted Anderson who was on the FA. It is important to recognize Ted as the name for this route was inspired by Ted and comes from a Zappa song. Ted Anderson is a huge Zappa fan and we listened to a lot of Zappa when enroute to our "many" climbing adventures together. We were also, of course, big fans of the objects of this song...
After we did the first ascent & named it Titties & Beer this route got dubbed "the world's hardest 5.8". The story behind that is after we did the first ascent we were telling Jeep Gaskin, Grover Cable & some other friends about the new route. They asked us how hard we thought the route was. We thought about it and it seemed pretty easy compared to some of the scarefests we had done & were doing on the Glass and elsewhere and we also thought 5.10 was about the hardest we could climb back then. So off the cuff I said "Oh, it's probably about 5.8." Future ascents later confirmed that I might have had understated the rating a bit. Hence it became dubbed "The worlds hardest 5.8" Goes to show its always good to have a concensus on ratings.... The 5.8 climber might need a beer or two after climbing the sensational, voluptuous, undulations on this route.
Regardless of the original stated rating, for its grade it is a very cool route with a lot of character for a Looking Glass climb. We originally did the route by starting from the left on the upper slab and traversing to underneath the prominent crack system where we placed a bolt and belayed. We also later added a 10+ or 11- R/X direct start that we toproped at first and I led at one point. This variation climbed direct up a step slab off the ground with little or no pro to below the belay below the crack. The route has some hard moves to gain the crack and that is what I thought was the crux on the FA. Continue on up the crack and belay near the top. From there move out left a bit to find a spot where you can move thru the bulges and start trending right and then up. It has been a long time since I have done the route but follow the natural line to the top. You might consult the guide book if you want a more accurate description of where the route goes.
After we did the first ascent & named it Titties & Beer this route got dubbed "the world's hardest 5.8". The story behind that is after we did the first ascent we were telling Jeep Gaskin, Grover Cable & some other friends about the new route. They asked us how hard we thought the route was. We thought about it and it seemed pretty easy compared to some of the scarefests we had done & were doing on the Glass and elsewhere and we also thought 5.10 was about the hardest we could climb back then. So off the cuff I said "Oh, it's probably about 5.8." Future ascents later confirmed that I might have had understated the rating a bit. Hence it became dubbed "The worlds hardest 5.8" Goes to show its always good to have a concensus on ratings.... The 5.8 climber might need a beer or two after climbing the sensational, voluptuous, undulations on this route.
Regardless of the original stated rating, for its grade it is a very cool route with a lot of character for a Looking Glass climb. We originally did the route by starting from the left on the upper slab and traversing to underneath the prominent crack system where we placed a bolt and belayed. We also later added a 10+ or 11- R/X direct start that we toproped at first and I led at one point. This variation climbed direct up a step slab off the ground with little or no pro to below the belay below the crack. The route has some hard moves to gain the crack and that is what I thought was the crux on the FA. Continue on up the crack and belay near the top. From there move out left a bit to find a spot where you can move thru the bulges and start trending right and then up. It has been a long time since I have done the route but follow the natural line to the top. You might consult the guide book if you want a more accurate description of where the route goes.
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