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DescriptionUnlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations. Getting ThereFrom the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Left Up 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Second Coming 5.7 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Bloody Crack 5.7+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
First Return 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet
Gemini Crack 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Zodiac 5.8+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet
Rat's Ass 5.8+ Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Right Up 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Unfinished Concerto 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet
Dinkus Dog 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For South Side
Dinkus Dog 5.10b NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side
A vote here for the best 5.10 traditional face climb in the state! An incredible trad route on Looking Glass' South Side. The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runou...[more] Browse More Classics in NC |