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South Side

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Bloody Crack 
Dinkus Dog 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Good Intentions 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Second Coming 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Unfinished Concerto 
Zodiac 

South Side

Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Administrator: saxfiend
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Description 

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Left Up   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Second Coming   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   
Bloody Crack   5.7+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
First Return   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Gemini Crack   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Zodiac   5.8+ R     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   
Rat's Ass   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Right Up   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Unfinished Concerto   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Dinkus Dog   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   
Browse More Classics in South Side

Featured Route For South Side
Brian Abram, leading pitch 2 of Dinkus Dog on the South Side of Looking Glass.  Kyle Sox is belaying.

Dinkus Dog 5.10b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side
A vote here for the best 5.10 traditional face climb in the state! An incredible trad route on Looking Glass' South Side. The route climbs in-cut eyebrows and features bomber gear. Begin on a low angle slab that turns into a 80 degree face under a roof. Pull over and left of the roof and continue straight up to a hanging belay, passing several distinct crux moves between gear. The second pitch wanders to the left slightly with a slight runou...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC