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Nose Area

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Dum Dee Dum Dum 
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Nose Area

Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Administrator: saxfiend
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8-     Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III   
The Nose   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   
Peregrine   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465 feet   
Hyperbola   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230 feet   
Browse More Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Mark Willey moving past first crux.

The Nose 5.8  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Pitch 1: Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge. 5.5, 90'Pitch 2: Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance. 5.8, 100'Pitch 3: From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on. 5.8, 100'Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is signific...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC