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Looking Glass Rock
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Bloody Crack 
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Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, The 
First Return 
Gemini Crack 
Glass Menagerie, The 
Good Intentions 
Hyperbola 
Le Pump 
Left Up 
Lichen or Not 
Nose, The 
Peregrine 
Predator 
Rat's Ass 
Right Up 
Seal, The 
Second Coming 
Sensemilia Sunset 
Short Man's Sorrow 
Sperm, The 
Sundial Crack 
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 
Unfinished Concerto 
Womb, The 
Zodiac 

First Return 

5.8

   

FA: Ron Cousins, Art Williams, 1972
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 200 feet
Views: 416 page views

Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007


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Description 

Thin moves down low lead past the crux and to a thin corner. Climb this corner aiming for the larger corner system. Follow up and to the right to the Gemini Rappel anchors. A double rope rappel puts you back on Sentry Box Ledge.


Location 

First Return is the left most route of the three routes (Gemini Crack and Zodiac) located on Sentry Box Ledge.


Protection 

Standard NC rack with some small gear (aliens, nuts), long runners, double ropes. Rap anchors at top.



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By Floridaputz
May 2, 2007

This climb starts on sentry box ledge at the far North end. Climb the face (5.8) to inside corner, or start in corner itself. this crack ends at a kind of slabby overhang. Pull to Left (supposedly a hidden jug) or right to nice gear belay 120 ft(5.8). 2nd pitch follows crack to the top 180 FT (5.5). There are a nice new set of Rap bolts about 20 ft North of the big tree. Previously the tree was the rap anchor. Now the rap does not interfere with the other routes that come up from the ledge.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Aug 12, 2008

I don't think those distances, mentioned in the above comment, are correct (p1 = 120 ft + p 2 = 180 ft = 300 ft). The two pitches can be combined into one pitch that is less than 200 ft pitch. And the rappel from the new bolts is approximately 180 ft to Sentry Box Ledge. I will find the pdf of the new anchors and post...it is attached to the Gemini Cracks page.