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North Carolina


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Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 14, 2006
Administrator: saxfiend
Latitude: 35.6037  Longitude: -79.2773 
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A nice view of the south face with several climbin...


Description 

You could probably make a strong case for North Carolina as the home of the best rock climbing in the south. No other southern state has the variety or sheer volume hosted here. From the multi-pitch quartzite of Linville Gorge, to the eyebrows and hard aid of Looking Glass, to the exposed granite scarefests of Cashiers Valley, North Carolina has it all.

In addition to great rock and lots of destinations, North Carolina has a reputation for tradition that is not to be trifled with. Most routes in the state were established with ground-up techniques using whatever protection the rock affords, placing bolts only on lead and only when absolutely necessary. Anyone unwise enough to rap-bolt a route will usually come back to find their work erased by the locals.

What this means, at least in anything above an easy-to-moderate grade, is that you need a good lead head if you’re going to lead in North Carolina. Long runouts between pro or bolts are taken for granted here. And even moderate and/or well-protected routes can be stout for the grade.

For beginners and new trad leaders, Table Rock is a great destination. Fun leads in the “easy” range (5.3-5.5) abound, and there’s good opportunities for toproping at the nearby Chimneys. More experienced leaders will enjoy the airy multi-pitch moderates at the neighboring Amphitheater in Linville Gorge, or the granite crack climbs of Rumbling Bald.

If you’re ready to raise the stakes, take a trip to Stone Mountain, a huge granite dome with great friction climbing and wild runouts. And for the ultimate in NC climbing, head for Whiteside Mountain or Laurel Knob; only the seriously adventurous need apply.

There are also numerous bouldering areas in North Carolina. Hound Ears, near Boone, is one of the hosts for the celebrated Triple Crown bouldering competition (unfortunately, that’s the only time it’s open to climbing).


Getting There 

See directions for individual areas.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Carolina:
The Mummy   5.5 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade II   Linville Gorge : Amphitheater
The Great Arch   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
North Ridge   5.5     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet   Linville Gorge : Table Rock
The Daddy   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade III   Linville Gorge : Amphitheater
Fruit Loops   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
Zoo View   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet   Moore's Wall
Sundial Crack   5.8-     Trad, 4 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III   Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
The Nose   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Groover (Gaskin Finish)   5.8     Trad, 6 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Laurel Knob
Gemini Crack   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Looking Glass Rock : South Side
Rat's Ass   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Looking Glass Rock : South Side
Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8")   5.9     Trad, 5 pitches, 500 feet, Grade IV   Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall
Dopey Duck   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain
Frosted Flake   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
Hyperbola   5.10a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet   Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Dinkus Dog   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Looking Glass Rock : South Side
The Womb   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Cornflake Crack   5.11a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Shredded Wheat   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Browse More Classics in North Carolina


Featured Route For North Carolina
The slab and headwall above

No Free Lunch 5.10c/d  NC : Linville Gorge : Hawksbill Mtn
This line is a linkup of on existing sport route and a trad finish. Dan and myself added the finish sometime in 2004.Climb the 2nd sport route on the lower slab to the anchor(5.11A). Continue up and right to a roof. Move left then straight up aiming to top out right, of the obvious V-shaped block at the top(5.10 c/d). Double bolt anchor at the top.Done as one long pitch, I recall it being quite fun....[more]   Browse More Classics in NC


Photos of North Carolina Slideshow Add Photo
KK Gregory pulling on perfect sandstone at Lost Cove, Boone, NC.

KK Gregory pulling on perfect sandstone at Lost Co...

Robert groping for the next hidden hold

Robert groping for the next hidden hold

Lee on Zen face at the Gold Coast Cliffs in Linville Gorge.

Lee on Zen face at the Gold Coast Cliffs in Linvil...

Sean climbing below the main overlook

Sean climbing below the main overlook

Tim leading a classic crack

Tim leading a classic crack

Big Green 09/08

Big Green 09/08

Big Green 09/08

Big Green 09/08

A special place

A special place

A special place

A special place

FA at secret crag early 1990's

FA at secret crag early 1990's

Brian climbing.

Brian climbing.

Did somebody say granite?  NC.

Did somebody say granite? NC.