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North Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alarm Arm 
Bashart 
Boss Hog 
Direct on the Truth 
Fatty 
Grijavla Route 
Loser 
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) 
Or Dare 
Power House 
Red Licorice 
Truth, The 
Unknown 2 
Unknown 3 

North Wall 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Sep 23, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A few of the routes on the right end of North Wall

Description 

A nice spring / fall crag with a wide variety of routes. Around 30 routes contain a good variety of trad and sport climbs from 5.7 to 5.13.

This area is North facing so primarily shaded making it great for spring / fall and cold in the winter. May still be hot in the middle of summer.

In general the routes here are short and bouldery with hard starts to easier finishes. Most of the routes are vertical to slightly overhanging.


Getting There 

From the Box Parking lot, hike directly down the streambend. Hike almost to the road and you will see North Wall on your right. This is the backside of Red Wall. Find a small trail starting out of the streambend up the short hill to the base. Trail ends just left of the Corner Block. Approach time is about 10 minutes.


Climbs 

Climbs from right to left.

Liposuction Massacre 5.10+ (Starts behind corner block)
The Truth 5.7 Trad
Direct on the Truth 5.9 Trad
Project
Alarm Arm 5.11+ Trad
Fatty 5.11b
Red Licorice 5.11b
Bashart 5.12c
Loser 5.13a, shared finish with Bashart
Maria de la Sangria 5.11+
Unknown 1 5.11
Grijavla Route 5.12c, listed as "Loser" in the RC NM Book.
There is a 30 foot break in the climbs here
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) 5.13c/d
Boss Hog 5.12c
Rock Trooper 5.9
Black Crack 5.10+ Trad
Arch of Evil 5.10+ Trad
Jack be Quick (Candlestick) 5.12c
Grease Mechanic 5.12-
Box Baby 5.10b
Modern Day Contrivances 5.11+
Box Frenzy 5.10a
Totem 5.7 Trad
Tomahawk 5.9 Trad
The next 5 climbs are before Z crack, however they are listed after Z crack in the Rock Climbing New Mexico guide.
Unknown 5.10c
Power House 5.11c
Crystal Ball 5.11b
Unknown 2 5.10a
Unknown 3 5.10b
The Z Crack 5.8 Trad


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Wall:
Red Licorice   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 45'   
Browse More Classics in North Wall

Featured Route For North Wall
The Truth

The Truth 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13  NM : Socorro Area : ... : North Wall
P1: go left on slabs, clip a bolt, continue up then left to a bolted belay.P2: climb up the prominent right facing dihedral passing two old bolt holes (bolts removed). Traverse right at the top of the pitch to a bolted anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on North Wall Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 15, 2009

I believe (11)Loser 5.13a, is actually just left of (8)Bashart 5.12c and shares the finish of that route. Then as you work left you have the 2 trad routes that are 5.11 and then (12)Grajavla route 5.12c.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 16, 2009

Thanks Lee, I got this info from the Falcon guide RC NM which is wrong in many areas on this wall.

After the Grijalva route are there two projects on the tall steep section of wall?

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 16, 2009

After the 2 trad 5.11's and the Grijavla Route, there is a Chris Eckstien Project that I tried recently with him and apparently Nathaniel Walker spent some time trying, I'll write it up once we send, a bolt needs to be moved slightly. Then the 5.12- Boss Hog though I don't know if the name is right. There could then be some trad routes as listed and a hard 5.12c that Chris and Lance were calling "The Candlestick" I don't know which name is correct, their's of the one from the guide. There is one more difficult looking sport route, pressumably the 5.12- and I did not look around any further.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 29, 2009

OK after (17) Arch of Evil, the routes go as so.

5.12c The Candlestick/Jack be Quick- climbs just left of black streak for 4 bolts with anchor in the streak up on the slab. FA: Lance and Chris.
Due to the fact that this route climbs the fringe and into a black streak it probably needs a good brushing proior to climbing on it.

5.12? Grease Mechanic- climbs the blunt arete to a big runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt. The climb looks harder than the suggested grade but I have not been on it and the holds can be hard to find on this wall.

5.10?- climbs the pretty wall coverd by yellow lichen, looks pretty runout. 4 bolts