A nice spring / fall crag with a wide variety of routes. Around 30 routes contain a good variety of trad and sport climbs from 5.7 to 5.13.
This area is North facing so primarily shaded making it great for spring / fall and cold in the winter. May still be hot in the middle of summer.
In general the routes here are short and bouldery with hard starts to easier finishes. Most of the routes are vertical to slightly overhanging.
From the Box Parking lot, hike directly down the streambend. Hike almost to the road and you will see North Wall on your right. This is the backside of Red Wall. Find a small trail starting out of the streambend up the short hill to the base. Trail ends just left of the Corner Block. Approach time is about 10 minutes.
Climbs from right to left.
Liposuction Massacre 5.10+ (Starts behind corner block)
Or Dare 5.10b Sport, 2nd Pitch of "The Truth"
The Truth 5.7 Trad
Direct on the Truth 5.9 Trad
Project, May have been done by Timy at 5.14?
Alarm Arm 5.11+ Trad
Red Licorice 5.11b
Loser 5.13a, shared finish with Bashart
Maria de la Sangria 5.11+
Unknown 1 5.11
Grijavla Route 5.12c, listed as "Loser" in the RC NM Book.
There is a 30 foot break in the climbs here
Minas Boreas (Tower of the North) 5.13c/d
Boss Hog 5.12c
Rock Trooper 5.9, 1 bolt, no anchor.
Black Crack 5.10+ Trad
Arch of Evil 5.10+ Trad
Jack be Quick (Candlestick) 5.12c
Grease Mechanic 5.12+, Climbs up Thin Arete, Could use finger size cam
Unknown Slab Route, 12-?? climbs up past 4 bolts to anchors shared with "Grease Mechanic"
The next three routes are various linkups starting in the crack of "Totem" and finishing at the anchors of "Grease Mechanic"
Box Baby 5.10b, Start in left crack, and at weakness traverse across slab to join "Grease Mechanic" at third bolt.
Modern Day Contrivances 5.11+, Shared start with "Box Baby", after joining "Grease Mechanic" break left for 3rd and 4th bolt of the unknown slab route. Kind of pointless now that the full slab route is bolted.
Box Frenzy 5.10a, Climb crack, then move right towards the top to join last 2? bolts of the slab route and anchors of "Grease Mechanic".
Totem 5.7 Trad, climbs up the corner, no anchor
Tomahawk 5.9 Trad, climbs through the small roof, no anchor.
The next 5 climbs are before Z crack, however they are listed after Z crack in the Rock Climbing New Mexico guide.
Unknown "10c", 5.11c
Power House 5.11c
Crystal Ball 5.11b
Unknown 2 5.10a
Unknown 3 5.10b
The Z Crack 5.8 Trad
18 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
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Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 15, 2009
I believe (11)Loser 5.13a, is actually just left of (8)Bashart 5.12c and shares the finish of that route. Then as you work left you have the 2 trad routes that are 5.11 and then (12)Grajavla route 5.12c.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 16, 2009
Thanks Lee, I got this info from the Falcon guide RC NM which is wrong in many areas on this wall.
After the Grijalva route are there two projects on the tall steep section of wall?
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 16, 2009
After the 2 trad 5.11's and the Grijavla Route, there is a Chris Eckstien Project that I tried recently with him and apparently Nathaniel Walker spent some time trying, I'll write it up once we send, a bolt needs to be moved slightly. Then the 5.12- Boss Hog though I don't know if the name is right. There could then be some trad routes as listed and a hard 5.12c that Chris and Lance were calling "The Candlestick" I don't know which name is correct, their's of the one from the guide. There is one more difficult looking sport route, pressumably the 5.12- and I did not look around any further.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 29, 2009
OK after (17) Arch of Evil, the routes go as so.
5.12c The Candlestick/Jack be Quick- climbs just left of black streak for 4 bolts with anchor in the streak up on the slab. FA: Lance and Chris.
Due to the fact that this route climbs the fringe and into a black streak it probably needs a good brushing proior to climbing on it.
5.12? Grease Mechanic- climbs the blunt arete to a big runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt. The climb looks harder than the suggested grade but I have not been on it and the holds can be hard to find on this wall.
5.10?- climbs the pretty wall coverd by yellow lichen, looks pretty runout. 4 bolts