The North Wall is another steep sport wall in Big Chief. As with the rest of Big Chief, the rock is basalt. Here, the rock formed a little differently than further south, resulting in overhung shear slabs devoid of any holds, punctuated with broken parts. This usually results in steep, challenging, VERY sporty routes.
Everything is bolted, coldshuts are common and often old-looking, all routes all under 100 feet, and I would imagine you could lower off with a 50m rope. (not sure though)
The Oven is the inset part of the wall that contains some steep sporty routes. Can't really say i know why it got a different name.
Approach time: ~20 minutes.
From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.
After .6 miles of the gentle remnants of the dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.
Just over the north pass, hang a right and soon you will find yourself at the North Wall... the first two bolted routes are not overhung, but continue a little further to find yourself in the Oven.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Wall:
Half Baked 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For North Wall
Bun in the Oven 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: Tahoe Vicinity
: ... : North Wall
Of the main part of the Oven, this is the rightmost bolted climb of the crowded bolt section that consists of Half Baked (5.10a), Undercooked (5.11b), and their continuations. Walk into the pit known as the oven, and it's the route that moves straight up right on front of you on the right side. A waterstreak on the grey the crux block also makes this route stand out about 35 feet off the ground. Climb up gently overhung blocks using mostly large hands and all the fun grainy basalt smearage you c...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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