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North Star 

WI4+ M4-5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus: WI3 M4-5 [details]
FA: ???
Season: Fall
Page Views: 2,265
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Apr 1, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: North Star.

Please respect the mining claims in this area.

Description 

There are two variations to the first pitch, there is the direct start that rarely comes in at WI4 M5 R/X. The other start is more reasonable, but still is a bit R and goes at WI4- M4. This start is to the climber's right of the direct variation and ascends a mixed runnel to gain the big ledge below the main flow.

P1. WI4- M4. Pull an awkward bulge that is well-protected and ascend up the mixed runnel to the big ledge.

P2. WI3. Climb up the left side of the main ice flow and belay below the big overhang.

P3. M4+. Traverse left to avoid the gnarly, overhanging, ice dagger??? and climb whatever looks clever up blocky terrain to gain the low angle terrace. You can link P2-3.

P4-5 WI3- M2. ascend up the gully if its in for 1 or 2 more pitches.

Descend by scrambling off to the West or rap the route.

Location 

Drive up County RD 850 and park at the upper Blue Lake dam. Cross the stream and traverse the scree/talus slope. Caution! There is a mine shaft at the base of the climber's right variation that can drift in with snow.

Please do not trespass around the lower Blue Lake cabin or road.

Protection 

Full alpine rack up to #4BD, pitons, ice screws, and a helmet.


Photos of North Star Slideshow Add Photo
North Star in September.
BETA PHOTO: North Star in September.
From the blocky 3rd pitch. Closed head injuries are fun.
From the blocky 3rd pitch. Closed head injuries ar...

Comments on North Star Add Comment
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By Ben Collett
Oct 2, 2013

While this is a cool feature, the rock through the crux is really pretty chossy. The rap from the top of pitch 3 to the bottom of pitch 2 is a full 60m and the route wanders quite a lot, so linking those pitches is perhaps not the best idea. Right now there isn't much ice in the runnel on the first pitch, but that is not too much of a problem.