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North Six Shooter Peak

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Lightning Bolt Cracks 
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North Six Shooter Peak 


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Location: 38.13741, -109.66805 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Apr 1, 2002
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Description 

Compared to the view from the top of North Six Shooter, the top of Castleton Tower might as well be buried under Lake Powell. This is absolutely the most amazing summit I have ever tagged. The climbing ain't bad either.

North Six Shooter is the northwesterly of two spectacular towers (the other being South Six Shooter) that come into view on the left when Indian Creek Canyon opens up, past all the established cragging. It sits atop a massive talus cone and the east face offers one of the very best tower routes, the famous Lightning Bolt Cracks. A series of subsidary summits reach to the south. I don't know whether they have been climbed, but the southernmost summits in particular have some beautiful crack lines.

Lightning Bolt Cracks has cracks of every size with comparatively only a little offwidth. All the other routes follow crack systems that appear to have an inordinate amount of offwidth climbing. The first ascent was made in the early '60s by way of the chimney between the main tower and the next summit. It finished up a decrepit bolt ladder-these days, I'd sooner be bludgeoned to death.

To descend, rappel south from the summit into the aforementioned chimney/notch (check out the bolt ladder). Then, rappel from three somewhat dubious bolts down the *west* side of the formation to the ground.


Getting There 

Drive west/north past Newspaper Rock and all the main buttresses to the Davis Canyon Road, around 14 miles beyond Newspaper Rock. The road turns 4WD pretty quickly. At one point you can follow a track to the right that bends around toward the base of the talus cone (the tower is west of the road, which curves back east after a couple miles). Our guidebook suggested approaching from the south. We attempted to do this and ended up following a line of cairns that led to horrifying 5.awkward soloing over the obvious white rim. Instead, aim for a break in the rim further north, then follow the rim until below the east face, where a passable trail takes you the final hump. Lightning Bolt Cracks and Liquid Sky are obvious above.


5 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Six Shooter Peak:
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, Grade III   
Liquid Sky   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches   
Browse More Classics in North Six Shooter Peak

Featured Route For North Six Shooter Peak
Kent "The Sender" disappears into the maw of the infamous Liquid Sky

Liquid Sky 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : North Six Shooter Peak
The Creeks most classic squeeze.P1. Splitter thin fingers up to hands and even some chimney. Gear belay at the base of a slot. (5.11)P2. Fists up a slot and through a bulge to a gear belay at a stance. (5.9)P3. Offwidth in a corner to an optional belay/ bail anchor, and then tunnel and squeeze up through the back of the roof. (5.11+/.12-) At the top of the squeeze a fist traverse left regains the final chimney of "Lightning Bolt Crack". Very size dependent. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of North Six Shooter Peak Slideshow Add Photo
North Six Shooter Peak as seen from the old corral.
North Six Shooter Peak as seen from the old corral...
The North Six in the clouds
The North Six in the clouds
Michael Kennedy on the Pratt Crack as Ken Sims and Greg Davis look helplessly on.
Michael Kennedy on the Pratt Crack as Ken Sims and...
Girlfriend of the moment, and something much more interesting in the background . . .
Girlfriend of the moment, and something much more ...
Todd Gordon mixed up on the summit.  Photo: Todd Gordon Collection.
Todd Gordon mixed up on the summit. Photo: Todd G...
North Six Shooter from Creek Pasture <br />
North Six Shooter from Creek Pasture
North Six Shooter at night
North Six Shooter at night
North Six Shooter's east face at night
North Six Shooter's east face at night
Mike in the thick of it.
Mike in the thick of it.
The North Six Shooter
The North Six Shooter
N. 6 shooter.
N. 6 shooter.
N. Six Shooter
N. Six Shooter
BETA PHOTO
The Post Master of Cimarron Co. Jim Newberry on the original route bolt ladder.
The Post Master of Cimarron Co. Jim Newberry on th...
North Six Shooter.
North Six Shooter.
me on the final pitch of the Pratt crack Fall 1980 <br />Photo by Ken Sims
me on the final pitch of the Pratt crack Fall 1980...
South side of North Six Shooter. Looking up Lightning Bolt Cracks and Liquid Sky.
South side of North Six Shooter. Looking up Lightn...
Mushroom boulder is a good landmark for the trail to the base of Lightning Bolts
Mushroom boulder is a good landmark for the trail ...
View of Lightning Bolts
BETA PHOTO: View of Lightning Bolts
Sunrise on North Six Shooter
Sunrise on North Six Shooter
North SixShooter from South SixShooter
North SixShooter from South SixShooter
Lightning Bolt Cracks and Liquid Sky can be seen in this photo of the south face of North Six Shooter.
Lightning Bolt Cracks and Liquid Sky can be seen i...
North Six Shooter Peak taken from the air in a Cessna 182.
North Six Shooter Peak taken from the air in a Ces...
Comments on North Six Shooter Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2002

If you only have a 2WD vehicle, you can try a different approach. Go past the Davis Gulch turnoff, continuing on the paved road a mile or so until there is a road left that heads up the drainage north of North Six Shooter (this drainage is marked "Corral Pocket" on the quad). A 2WD gravel road heads up this drainage, park soon and climb up to the NE ridge of the formation, and circle around to the south side to reach the trail going directly up to the SE face.

This is perhaps shorter distancewise than the normal approach. I did this probably 8 years ago, so the gravel road may be worse now or even gated off, but it's worth checking out.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 3, 2002

How's this for a memory? While schlepping up the original free/aid route (in the chimney left of Lightning Bolt)in 1980, I chanced to watch off-width technique perfection from the crack's perspective. Gazing through the 12" or so crack all the way to the other side of the rock, I saw the hands, feet, knees, etc. of a calm and collected soul about 50 feet out from a rattly tube chock. He made short work Pratt's Crack. We met the man after the descent: the late Mugs Stump.

Brian Hansen

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 30, 2003

In the first of the two photos above, the best approach (from Davis Canyon road) comes in from the right to bypasss the low cliff band by way of a gully. This may be so far right that it is out of the photo, but it is much better than any alternative to the left--particularly the one we used! Once above the cliff band, get to the jumbled section of talus that lies directly below the tallest tower (where the LBCs are), and you should find a passable trail all the way to the base.

By Charlie Nuttelman
Nov 28, 2006

Awesome climb! Truly a classic. There's nothing better than pulling through the cave on pitch 3 to the overhang, perfect hand jam and hundreds of feet of pure air below you, dangling on a prow high above the desert with South Sixshooter behind you!! Then the squeeze chimney. Had to take our helmets off so our heads would fit; helmet somehow came unclipped from my harness, it fell out into The Void, the wind blew it back into the crack 15 feet below and it stuck like Velcro! WOW!! Go climb this! What an experience!

Gear if you want the beta: 1-small cam (purple TCU) or nuts, 1-#0.5 BD, 2-#1, 2-#2s, 3-#3s, 1-#4, 1-#5. A single 60-meter rope will get you down fine (no worries about a 'sketchy downclimb' mentioned in the guidebook); three sets of rappel anchors down the chimney to the south and east.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Aug 27, 2010

Why isn't Chuck Pratt's route listed? It's one of the few routes he ever wrote about. Perfect 5.10 off width. A great climb and I believe I've done five times simply because it's super cool.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 21, 2013

NORTH SIX-SHOOTER ROUTE TOPO

South Side <br />by Ken Trout, 1987
South Side
by Ken Trout, 1987

CORRAL POCKET APPROACH MAP
contour interval 40 feet
contour interval 40 feet

-Red box marks Creek Pasture climber's camp.
-Red dots mark 1.8 mile dirt road to parking.
-Look for unlocked gate from highway.
-Pencil marks steep hiking (1,000ft gain).
-Shortest way to all routes.