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 ADVANCED
North Side

Select Route:
Bombelay T 
Captain Kangaroo T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Glass I ( Pitch 1 ), The T 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Shrimp Cocktail T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 

North Side  


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Location: 35.30405, -82.79583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 129,970
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Fa...

Description 

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

29 Total Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',7],['5.11',13],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
Safari Arete (extension)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
The Seal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
Killer Whales   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cornflake Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
The Glass I ( Pitch 1 )   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 80'   
Safari Jive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Safari Jive Double Direct    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Bombelay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Extra Crimpy Chicken   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Invisible Airwaves Direct   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Waverly Waster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in North Side

Featured Route For North Side
Mary at the start of Pooter the Poacher.  Notice t...

Pooter the Poacher 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
This is a long and very involved climb. There are many thought provoking moves and a few butt-clenchers for good measure. If you like friction climbing and hard eye-brows this is for you. This is also one of the first climbs to dry on the left side of the North Face.Start in a flared hand crack in a left facing shallow dihedral. Move up this moderate crack to its top and traverse left to a very short right facing dihedral. Step up and move right for about 25' on a good ledge to the base of ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
From the trail.
BETA PHOTO: From the trail.
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...

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