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People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.
From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.
25 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Side
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Safari Arete (extension) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
The Seal 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Pooter the Poacher 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Invisible Airwaves 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'
Creatures of Waste 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'
The Womb 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Cornflake Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Killer Whales 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Guillotine 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Safari Jive 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Safari Jive Double Direct 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Bombelay 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Extra Crimpy Chicken 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Whitney's Excellent Route 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Waverly Waster 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Kahntian Ethics 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Waste Not, Want Not 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 Trad, 7 pitches, 900'
Featured Route For North Side
The Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plen...[more] Browse More Classics in NC
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