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North Side

Select Route:
Bombelay T 
Cornflake Crack T 
Creatures of Waste T 
Deliverance aka : Squeal Like a Pig T 
Extra Crimpy Chicken T,S 
Glass Menagerie, The T 
Guillotine, The T 
Invisible Airwaves T 
Invisible Airwaves Direct T 
Kahntian Ethics T,S 
Killer Whales T 
Off the Wall T 
Pooter the Poacher T 
Remember Appomattox (aka Rowins's Route) 
Ride the Lightning T 
Safari Arete (extension) T 
Safari Jive T 
Safari Jive Direct T 
Safari Jive Double Direct  T 
Seal, The T 
Sperm, The T 
Waste Not, Want Not T,S 
Waverly Waster T 
Whitney's Excellent Route T 
Womb, The T 

North Side 


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Location: 35.30405, -82.79583 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 118,380
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
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Late Great Doc Bayne and Myself on Carolina Hog Fa...

Description 

People use words like "Yosemite" to describe the North Side, and this is definitely the home of Looking Glass' most serious and difficult climbing. For all but the most advanced climbers, aid is the style of climbing here. Signature North Side routes include Glass Menagerie and the Womb.


Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead and the Sun Wall kiosk/parking lot. After about another quarter-mile, look for a pullout on the right. Hike down from the parking lot to a clearing, then follow an old logging grade to the left a short distance to a footpath that cuts off to the right. Hike through the woods for about 20 minutes to finish at the base of Glass Menagerie.


Climbing Season


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',11],['5.12',6],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
The Sperm   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
The Seal   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Safari Arete (extension)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Pooter the Poacher   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Invisible Airwaves   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 240'   
Creatures of Waste   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b A3     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
The Womb   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Killer Whales   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cornflake Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
The Guillotine   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Safari Jive   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Safari Jive Double Direct    5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   
Bombelay   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Extra Crimpy Chicken   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Whitney's Excellent Route   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Invisible Airwaves Direct   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Waverly Waster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Kahntian Ethics   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Waste Not, Want Not   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Glass Menagerie   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 900'   
Browse More Classics in North Side

Featured Route For North Side
P-1 with the P-2 double cracks seen above.

Cornflake Crack 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side
Is this the best crack climb in the state, or just on the Glass? First freed by Henry Barber on one of his burning-off-the-locals tours in the '70s, this one remains an enduring classic. Whether you, too, will endure remains to be seen. Also known as a good place to learn to aid climb, in the same way the Louvre is known as a good place to read. P1: Climb up a couple body lengths to a short undercling roof. Plug some gear, take a deep breath, and scurry across to solid fingerlocks around th...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of North Side Slideshow Add Photo
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side late eighties
The Late Cool Doc Bane rapping off the north side ...
From the trail.
BETA PHOTO: From the trail.
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90's of Brain Dead and Horses & Hogs.  Taken from Invisible Airwaves. <br /> <br />I think the climbers were: Rick P, Todd "X", Kevin M, and Mickey H.
An older scanned photo I took back in the early 90...
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