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New River Gorge Proper

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Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
Bridge Area 
Bubba City 
Cotton Top 
Domino Point 
Endless Wall 
Fern Buttress 
Junkyard Area 
Kaymoor 
Keeney's Buttress 
South Nuttall 
Sunshine Crag 

New River Gorge Proper  


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Location: 38.0779, -81.0634 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 914,079
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.

Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

650 Total Routes

['4 Stars',121],['3 Stars',296],['2 Stars',164],['1 Star',50],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',32],['5.8',41],['5.9',64],['5.10',152],['5.11',158],['5.12',138],['5.13',34],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Geisha Girl   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
Divesh Bhatt in the dihedral section of Titan's Dice, 5.13a.

Titan's Dice 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
This is an amazing climb! Burly is the best way to sum it up. Although it is a sport route, its a nice blend of trad and sport skills. Start by climbing up into a pod/offwidth and dogleg left into the overhang. Throw in kneebar after kneebar as you inch out left toward the 4th bolt. Turn the lip and head into the dihedral. Face climb and stem your way through the dihedral to reach the roof. From here work your way left to pull the overhang for the best rest on the climb. From here, i...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Ministry.
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis...
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.

Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 13, 2011
So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2011
Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....
By katiepl87
Apr 19, 2014
Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail?
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 19, 2014
NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price.