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North Rim Routes

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Aretes 
Below Checkerboard Wall 
Checkerboard Wall, The 
Grizzly Creek Gully 
Island Peaks Overlook 
Long Draw area 
North Chasm View Wall 
Painted Wall, The 
Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully 
SOB Gully (skier's left side) 

North Rim Routes  


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Location: 38.57939, -107.70252 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 133,798
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from George Perkins
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"Atlantis" pitch 10. Yeah, it's that goo...

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Description 

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[This side of the impressive Black Canyon of the Gunnison is known for its pleasant, long routes with warmer temperatures. Despite the canyon's steepness and narrowness, these routes have a brighter ambience than some of the neighboring walls across the water. The one disadvantage to climbing on this side is that access is somewhat longer.

All routes here should be considered adventure climbing with challenging rock, rock quality, route finding, runouts, etc.. Assistance, in the event of the unexpected, is difficult to non-existent. Be prepared.

As with most climbing in the area, poison ivy and ticks are hazards during the non-climbing times of your visits here. Some folks have been even known to wear disposable Tivek suits to avoid these diminuitive demons.

Eds. if anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it, and then change the name of the contributor.]

Getting There 

Coming soon...

[The Black Canyon of Gunninson is located approximately 250 miles SW of Denver.

North Rim: 11 miles south of Crawford, via CO Hwy 92 and North Rim Road (closed in winter)

From the East, you can drive to Gunnison US 50, go W. To access the upstream end of the canyon, take CO Hwy 92 at the downstream end of the Blue Mesa Reservoir.

Eds. if anyone wishes to submit a description here, we can add it, and then change the name of the contributor.]

Subsections L->R: 

The Painted Wall.
Aretes.
SOB Gully (skier's left).
North Chasm View Wall.
Checkboard Wall.
Below Checkerboard Wall.
Grizzly Creek Gully.
Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully.
Long Draw area.
Island Peaks Overlook.

Thanks to George Perkins for his suggestion & help in this reorganization.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

80 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',11],['5.10',27],['5.11',18],['5.12',18],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Rim Routes:
The Casual Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   SOB Gully (skier's left sid...
The Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Checkerboard Wall
Escape Artist   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches   SOB Gully (skier's left sid...
Russian Arete   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 6 pitches   Aretes
Journey Home   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Grade IV   North Chasm View Wall
Comic Relief   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 8 pitches, 950'   SOB Gully (skier's left sid...
Checkerboard Wall   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 750'   The Checkerboard Wall
The Hallucinogen Wall   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R     Trad, Aid, 16 pitches   North Chasm View Wall
A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 7 pitches, 800'   SOB Gully (skier's left sid...
The Cruise   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 12 pitches, 1700'   North Chasm View Wall
Cloak & Dagger   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 6 pitches   SOB Gully (skier's left sid...
Highway 61 Revisited   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 11 pitches, 1600'   North Chasm View Wall
The Scenic Cruise   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   North Chasm View Wall
A Midsummer's Night Dream   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 6 pitches   North Chasm View Wall
Atlantis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 16 pitches, 1600'   Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul...
Stoned Oven   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 13 pitches, 1800'   North Chasm View Wall
Trilogy    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   North Chasm View Wall
Air Voyage   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 13 pitches, 1700'   North Chasm View Wall
The Apparition   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Trad, 9 pitches   North Chasm View Wall
The Free Nose   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 14 pitches   North Chasm View Wall
Browse More Classics in North Rim Routes

Featured Route For North Rim Routes
Topo for Blacksmiths.

Blacksmiths 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  CO : Gunnison : ... : Aretes
This 11 (or so) pitch line is another magnificent and committing route put up by Ogden and Donahue. The climbing is clean and safe throughout and the pitches after the traverse feel very out there. The views from the Hooker Buttress up and down river are extraordinary.P1. Start in a small, leftward-leaning, arched corner. Continue up a little munge and a deep corner. Step right and pull a steep splitter (10+). Continue up easier ground to a small ledge right of an obvious splitter on the arete, ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of North Rim Routes Slideshow Add Photo
The Great White Wall area.  Both the Great White W...
The Great White Wall area. Both the Great White W...
Celebrate a successful climb by riding the dinosau...
Celebrate a successful climb by riding the dinosau...

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