The old Hill guide credits Dalen & Coats for the first ascent. Yet this team found fixed gear halfway up the initial dihedral indicating prior activity.
Be that as it may, the North Ridge is a good day outing especially as combined with other one-pitch climbs in the area, such as Estrellita, Donald Duck, Fire Hydrant. Begin climbing the dihedral then traverse right after placing large pro in the overhanging crack. At least one subsequent party has gone straight out this roof, raising the grade to 5.8+ or possibly 5.9. Wander up broken ground to the summit & walk off....
Find the Fin as for Exhibition Wall. Route begins at the toe of the ridge, just off the La Luz Trail.
Fixed pin down low - may not be there any more. Otherwise full trad rack, including fist-size for the roof crack.
|By Karl Kiser|
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
This is a good climb. There is no fixed gear on the climb. The old bolts at the belay are well old (one hanger gone). Save 3/4 to 2" pieces for the belay. Traverse to the tree above Exhibition Wall and rap (one 60 m rope)
The PG is not at the crux but the face climbing above at an easier grade. The roof is a bit tricky. If one is to climb through the roof then a 3 1/2 and 4 Camalot would be useful. We climbed the finger crack and bulge several feet to the right of the wide crack. The route seemed harder than the given 5.8 rating.