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Mount Assiniboine (3,618m)
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North Face 
North Ridge 
Southwest Face 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a Mod. Snow PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: William Douglas, Christian Hasler, Christian Kaufmann, July, 1903
Season: Dry
Page Views: 2,375
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 26, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: ASSINIBOINE, NORTH RIDGE
Photo by Troy Kirwin MG
P...

INTRODUCTION

The standard route on Assiniboine was climbed by William Douglas and a strong team of guides. Christian Hasler had already descended the route two years before. Hasler was one of Whymper's guides from the Matterhorn, thirty-eight years earlier. (Chris Jones, Climbing in North America, 1976)(Randy Morse, The Mountains of Canada, 1978)

ROUTE DESCRIPTION

Gmoser's Highway ("mosers") is the start of serious terrain. I once watched some gnarly East Face candidates rappel the scary snow gully to climbers left, after using Gmoser's on the way up. They had huge packs. I don't recommend the gully. Instead, lower your big pack down the upper headwall, 30' of steep jugs (5.0) with a landing that might save you. The crux of the lower traverse is the less difficult, but more exposed. A roped fall could be very dangerous. Have the rack ready, even though a fixed pin may be found at the low end belay.

Do not drink any of the water found along Gmoser's Highway, the streams below the hut are polluted and have strange leech like worms. The RC Hind hut is one of the higher huts in the Rockies. Tenting on the huts flat spot may still be allowed. Make arrangements for the RC Hind Hut with the Assiniboine Lodge, easily searched on the web.

From the Hind Hut, cross moraines over to the north ridge and climb right of snow, along the easy part of the ridge. Cut left, on snow, around the first cliff band. A long scramble up debris covered slabs leads to the first hard part, the red band .

After the Red Band pitch, pick your way carefully up rubble covered ledges for a few hundred feet. This part is seen in the photo above.

The crux climbing is passing the Gray Band . Some teams solo all the way to the Gray Band and then do a 50 foot pitch. Above, a short rock rib is easily climbed to the summit ridge. Be on guard. Trapdoor summit cornices have claimed lives.

Descent is by careful down-climbing and some rappels. Lots of fixed anchors are in place, but not all get used. Pulling rappel ropes can cause rockfall.

On a busy day, moving cautiously , communicating with neighbors, and waiting in safe zones can help prevent accidents.



Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
The North Face and Ridge of Mt. Assiniboine from the Hind hut
The North Face and Ridge of Mt. Assiniboine from t...
Alpine ridge scrambling at its finest
Alpine ridge scrambling at its finest
Making the last steps to the summit of Mt. Assiniboine
Making the last steps to the summit of Mt. Assinib...
D'ya think you should stand that close to the edge, Bill??
D'ya think you should stand that close to the edge...
Crux section
Crux section
A busy day on the N Ridge
A busy day on the N Ridge
One of several options through the Red Band
One of several options through the Red Band
Teams queued up at the Gray Band
Teams queued up at the Gray Band
Near the top.
Near the top.
Loose rock rappel!!
Loose rock rappel!!
Approaching the N ridge itself.
Approaching the N ridge itself.
GMOSER'S HIGHWAY <br />Photo by MP contributor Flex <br />Taken from near the lodge landing zone <br /> <br />red box - RC Hind Hut <br />yellow dashes - trail <br />yellow/red - Gmoser's Hwy <br />yellow/black - North Ridge <br />
BETA PHOTO: GMOSER'S HIGHWAY
Photo by MP contributor Flex
Take...
British Colombia  <br />Assiniboine Approach Map <br /> <br />Red - roads  <br />Black box - Baymag plant <br />Blue - Marvel/Wonder passes <br />Green - Assiniboine Creek Shorcut
BETA PHOTO: British Colombia
Assiniboine Approach Map

Red - ...
Trail Map <br />Mount Assiniboine <br />contour interval 200 feet <br /> <br />red box - Hind Hut <br />yellow - Assiniboine Lodge <br />green box - Magog Lk Camp <br />violet box - Shark Mtn TH <br />black box - Marvel Pass TH <br />black/red box - Baymag <br /> <br />yellow dash - Bryant Cr Tr <br />yellow/red - Gmoser's Hwy <br />yellow/black - N Ridge <br />green - Assiniboine Cr Tr <br />black dash - Marvel/Wonder  <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Trail Map
Mount Assiniboine
contour interval 200 f...
Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 31, 2010

This route is really fun! Loose rock, of course, but that is expected up in Canada. The peak is gorgeous. The approach used to be a lot easier when you could do half of it on a mountain bike. Too bad they shut this down. See our trip report from 2000:

wwwright.com/climbing/tripreports/2000/Canada.htm

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 28, 2011

I can't thank George and Flex enough for the excellent beta & photos!