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Primus Peak
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East Slope 
North Ridge T 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 1986
Season: Summer and Fall
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: Tom Bath on Oct 27, 2009

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Climbing the N. Ridge of Primus

Description 

The North Ridge, while not technically difficult, is fairly serious as it remote and involves a wide variety of skills including glacier travel and route finding.
On, what appears to have been the 2nd ascent, I climbed the ridge starting just left of the toe and simuled the route in 4-5 pitches. The rock is mostly solid and easy with a few short steep sections.

Protection 

Gear to 2".


Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing on the ridge
BETA PHOTO: Climbing on the ridge
Looking up at the rap down the side of the icefall
Looking up at the rap down the side of the icefall
Foreshortened view of the N. Face
Foreshortened view of the N. Face
base of the icefall
base of the icefall
Summit views
Summit views
Standing at the base of the Lower Borealis Glacier with the icefall in the background. We rapped the right side of the Icefall rather than traversing the steep snow under the N. Fsce of Primus (out of view to the right).  Tricouni is the peak visible above.
Standing at the base of the Lower Borealis Glacier...

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