North Ridge 

The Chimney is a cool feature. Looks out both sides of the "steeple". At the top of the chimney I went through a small escape hatch onto the big sundeck ledge below the last very nice pitch, and scenic summit. Chimney pitch can be lead all as one with a 60. Don't remember a 5th pitch, as the nice 5.8 corner ends with a mantle right onto the summit. Descend with a fixed rap or two, and some easy downclimbing to the south west. "Death Block" in kelsey guide is gone. We had the luck to run into one of the original FA'ists of the route while camped in the area (he spotted us on the ridge while fishing), and he commented it was one of his favorite Wind River summits.

For us the 5th pitch was the 5.8 corner ending on the summit. After moving the belay to the notch below the chimney, the 3rd pitch gets you up into the chimney a ways and the 4th up and out of the chimney to the bottom of the 5th pitch (watch for rope drag in the chimney!) I think there were 4 single rope raps to get to the slopes below the Steeple/Lost Temple Spire col.

A very good but not great climb, interesting only for the novelty of the chimney pitch. That said though, the 5th pith (5.8 corner)to the summit is excellent. It is possible to descend into the Black Joe Drainage on the east side of the peak, from the notch after the third rappel. Keep bearing to the left as you descend, aiming for the snow fields. This was a great hike out; skirting the northern buttress of Haystack to reurn to our Deep Lake camp. I have attached photos of all of this.

I've done this route twice, so my enthusiasm is evident. Hard to imagine a better finishing pitch — a great 5.8 corner that ends as one virtually touches the summit with your hand, with exhilarating exposure the entire length of the pitch. The "chimney" is totally unique. More like a daylight, above-ground spelunk. You feel as if you have been absorbed by the bowels of the mountain the "chimney" is so large. Various ways exist to worm through this passage and exit below the aforesaid final pitch. All this and a technical descent from a beautifully sculptured peak. This is a great climb. I might do it a third time.

We totally loved this route.

The chimney pitch was tough for the grade but totally awesome. Maybe there is an easier way than the way we went? It was pretty physical toward the top, but nothing a bit of Vedauwoo training won't prepare you for!

For the final pitch we did the variation that steps right from the big ledge and goes up the right facing dihedral/handcrack to the summit. It was stellar!

Great route on excellent rock. Pitch 1 is over 200 ft. We simulclimbed to get to the notch. P2 goes over blocks and utilizes the double crack system to the third class ledge. The chimney pitch is unique. Tunnel thru and head up. It will look like it does not go, but it seems to work. Gear can be a little hard to get. Belay at next pedestal. Next pitch exits the chimney and has some awkward moves. Last pitch is awesome crack corner that is clean and protects well. Four short raps get you down where you follow grassy ledges to the bottom. Standard rack to #3. Doubles of everything.