Type: Trad, Alpine, 4000 ft (1212 m)
FA: Sierra Club party - August 1939
Page Views: 2,294 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This is an excellent long and exposed ridge traverse with spectacular views.

Gain the first summit by scrambling up its NE ridge, the odd Class 4 moves here and there. Follow the main horizontal ridge, keep right at the occasional impasse - the views across to Trapezoid's monolithic Northeast Wall are awe-inspiring. The ridge ends at a some towers and a notch. Descend down into the gap and then up a Class 3 face to the summit plateau.

Location Suggest change

Hike up to "Hurd Col" from Margaret Lake. The ridge to the first summit starts here.

Descent
Down climb or rappel the Class 3 face back into the notch, the
Descending the North Gully descends from the notch and makes a very quick way off. Ice-axe may be required (seasonal).

Protection Suggest change

Solo - or light rope and rack. Approach shoes suffice.

Photos

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