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White Twin
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North Face TR 
North Ridge T 
South Ridge T 
West Face S,TR 
West Face Direct TR 

North Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: FA: Paul Radigen, 1950s FFA: Harvey Carter, 1950s
Page Views: 1,942
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Aug 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Pennie Schwalm.

Seasonal Closures - all are lifted - 10/25/14 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This has a tricky start and is a little frightening. It can be toproped after leading the South Ridge. Climb up the steep north ridge on big holds.

Protection 

Fixed pins, stoppers, small to medium cams.


Photos of North Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Dan on North Ridge of White Spire.
Dan on North Ridge of White Spire.

Comments on North Ridge Add Comment
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By Sean O'Dell
Apr 23, 2002

This one is a lot of fun. You can pretty much make it as hard as you want - stay directly on the NW arete of white spire for the .7 rating - the farther left you go on the ridge the harder it is. Supposedly staying on the thin finger crack that runs directly down the center of the N. Ridge goes at about .11a(ish), but I've never tried it.
By Chris R
Apr 26, 2002

The crack, mentioned by the previous writer, is on the narrow North Face of the White Spire. If you stay in the crack (as much as you can call old pin scars and pockets a crack), the line goes at about 5.10b/c. It is difficult to protect on lead, for the reason that if you place pro in a pocket, it leaves no room for your hands.... This is, however, a fun little 5.10 TR. It feels very bouldery, and doesn't let up until you top out. Resist the temptation to move to the right, where the jugs are! Stay in the seam for the full effect. A worthy effort.
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

10b/c - I stand corrected. I don't know where I heard the 11a rating, but I'm sure beer was somehow involved :-)
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 3, 2002

...[Probably] a better idea to climb [South Ridge] and then TR this cause any pro pretty much takes up room for you to put your hands and feet.
By Larry Shaw
Nov 19, 2003

IMHO, this is the best route on the rock with cool moves and hand fitting holds.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 3, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The R rating may be a bit generous. PG-13 might be better. You can get 4 cams in addition to the 2 pins. A green Alien to start then a #1 Camalot out left before the pin, 2 more cams between the pins. The crux is between the ears. The old Rolofson guide gives it a 5.8R.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 1, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

There are one or two very old pitons, and you can probably find a few places for cams as well. But, I top roped it with my son after climbing the South Ridge first. I enjoyed this route as much, or more, than the South Ridge. It looks harder than it really is, and I highly recommend it.
By bigwallrog
From: the farside
Nov 6, 2009

I agree much better to TR, this opens up the whole North Ridge for a whole lotta fun....
If you lead it, you're going to be placing gear in the only good holds until you get above the first ring angle pin.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 25, 2011

Led this today for the first time in a quarter century. Placed green and red Aliens before the first pin and something between the pins. All placements looked good to me and pretty sure the rock would hold. If you're solid at 5.8, go ahead and lead this one. Great climb with just the right amount of spice.