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Hayden Spires
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East Face of East Pinnacle T 
North Ridge of Hayden Lake Pinnacle T 
North Ridge of Hayden Spire a.k.a. The dumbest idea in the park T 
Northeast Ridge of Hayden Spire T 
Standard Route of Hayden Spire T 

North Ridge of Hayden Lake Pinnacle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: A. Czecholinski, K. Wade
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Jul 13, 2010

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The following description is the one reported by the FA party. Longer ropes will make short work of this route.

Pitch 1: Start just right of the prow of the ridge, and climb a long pitch via faces and cracks up to the right to reach a large ledge.

Pitch 2: step right and climb cracks and a chimney for another long pitch to a belay right on the arete of the ridge.

Pitch 3: climb up the face and ridge (easy 5th), with some exposure to the left, for about 100'.

Pitch 4: continue up a short corner to a ridge, and follow it for 2 easy long pitches to the summit.

Descent: climb down to a small notch to the east, from where a 150' rap reaches a gully. Scramble UP this gully to a point where you can cross the ridge to the right. This is the ridge connecting the spire with the massif. Descend the scree gully back to the lake.


This is the large spire directly east of the Hayden Lake outlet.


Standard alpine rack.

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