Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 815 total · 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 23, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a tiny, fun problem on the middle boulder of what some call Hillbilly Flatironette. If you are in the area and want just a bit more climbing, this feature asks to be climbed.

Start from the slot between this middle and the upper (more west) boulder. You can move to the East side after you pull aboard. Work up the arete to its top.

To descend, the best option is probably to downclimb the route.

Currently, the top of the boulder has a series of cords and a sling around the westward-jutting bit. You can back this up with a long sling tossed around the tree or a very long sling to double up on the sling. The sunrotted sling around a broken branch was cleaned off. At the moment, there is just the sling off which to rappel. A quicklink or a second sling might make this feel safer if you rappel.

In Jason Haas' Climbing Boulder's Flatirons, this is listed as "HBF Middle Boulder." The slight name change was just descriptive and was not intended to alter the name listed, plus there are multiple problems on this rock including a west face problem that are harder.

Location Suggest change

This is on the middle boulder to the west of Hillbilly Rock. The route goes up the inviting, jagged North Ridge.

Protection Suggest change

A #7 and #2 BD wire and a #3.5 Camalot can protect this. You may be able to fiddle in an RP here or there. Long slings for the top may be useful.

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