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North Rabbit Ear

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Awful Buttress 
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Chute Route 
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Surprise Buttress 
West Face Corner 
West Face Direct 

North Rabbit Ear 


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Location: 32.3698, -106.5783 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,482
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Mar 10, 2008
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North Rabbit Ear viewed from Rabbit Ear Canyon as ...

Description 

The largest peak of the Rabbit Ears group, the North Rabbit Ear is a complicated assembly of chutes, faces and buttresses. Some of the faces are sustained and steep, while others offer moderate routes and top-out far from the summit, which can be an additional 800ft of 4th class scrambling. The convoluted nature of the peak and somewhat vague descriptions of the routes from the Ingraham guide combine to make for an excellent exercise in route-finding and general mountaineering skills.

This peak once boasted to be the most climbed peak in the Organs. There is little evidence that the peak gets the attention it once did, the approach trails undetectable, the route descriptions out-dated and the summit register bare for the past 4 years. However, the peak maintains its allure to local climbers, and offers a huge array of climbing possibilities; low-fifth class solo routes, meandering moderate routes up its many buttresses, and untapped possibilities of its steeper lines.


Getting There 

Approach can be from Aguirre springs for East Face routes, but is predominately from the Topp Hut Mine via Rabbit Ear Canyon. Expect some degree of bushwhacking and 45 min -2 hours from the top of the Topp Hut rd.

Descent from the summit is typically to the south face. Descend an easy ramp on the South East corner for about 200 ft until a rappel station of 2-pitons and a bolt is found. A 100 ft rappel gains a second rappel station consisting of 2 bolts. A final 140 ft rappel gains the saddle between Middle Rabbit Ear and North Rabbit Ear. There is a sketchy rappel station of tattered slings about 40 ft from the saddle which allows one to descend in 3 single-rope rappels. Many of the routes have independent descent options.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Rabbit Ear:
Boyer's Chute   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
West Face Corner   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in North Rabbit Ear

Featured Route For North Rabbit Ear
my father coming up the crux chimney

Boyer's Chute 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : North Rabbit Ear
Boyer's Chute was named after Del Boyer who was the first to free solo the route. The feature Boyer’s Chute Route follows starts as a prominent right-facing corner, becomes a distinct chute for most of the way (even turns into a chimney) then opens up again into a right-facing corner. Pitch 1: Start about 30 feet to the right of the corner on a more featured part of the sloping terrain. The climbing is easy (5.2), but many climbers may want to rope up to avoid exposed slab moves.Continue into th...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of North Rabbit Ear Slideshow Add Photo
Upper rap anchors for the "south face direct" rap route off of North Rabbit Ear.  1st station is a 3/8" bolt and an old rusty but solid piton (a second piton is not normally used).  2nd station is two 1/2" bolts (see picture under Boyer's Chute route).  This route (a single rope rap followed by a double rope rap) leaves you at the saddle between North and Middle Rabbit ears (below the church key on MRE).  Descend west through a steep brushy gully to Rabbit Ears Canyon.
Upper rap anchors for the "south face direct" rap ...
Comments on North Rabbit Ear Add Comment
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Nov 26, 2009

On my most recent ascent, I retrieved the Summit Register and have copied it into an electronic record located at my BLOG . I placed a new blank note-book at the Summit Cairn an I intend to print out the compiled history and place a copy back on the summit. I'd like to archive the originals in Las Cruces somewhere, possibly NMSU. If anyone knows about where to archive these locally, let me know.

By Dan Carter
From: Las Cruces, NM
Sep 27, 2010

Does anyone know about any routes on the east side? Specifically the northeast face, spine, arete looking area. Looks nice from Aquirre Springs.

By Karl Kiser
Oct 15, 2010

The climb to do on the east side is Hand Jive, 5.8+ III, put up by Paul and Lou Horak in the mid 1970s (8-10-75). The climb goes up the weakness just left of the prominent northeast ridge and traverses right of the large overhang on the fourth pitch. There are two additional easy pitches to the top. Rap off the south side of NRE at the standard stations. One should take a standard trad rack up to 3" and do not forget stoppers. Remember there were no cams when the climb was established.

By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 6, 2012

Karl - glad you mentioned Hand Jive: a classic if ever there was one. Why don't you copy your description & add the route?