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Routes in Little Matterhorn
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Heart of Gratitude T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Lederhosen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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North Pillar Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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North Pillar Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Southeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mitch Musci, Monica Annicks |
| Page Views: | 1,460 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Mitch Musci on Aug 7, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is a variation to North Pillar Left that largely follows its own line, just right of NPL. It takes a direct start to the North Pillar, following slabs and flakes for 3 pitches before joining the top of NPL's first pitch.
At the base of the north face, right of the large gully where North Pillar Left begins, locate a small roof about 40 feet up. The first pitch goes around the right side of this roof.
P1 - (5.5 R, 180 feet). Climb nice slabs passing the right side of the roof mentioned above. Continue straight up...at times you can step left or right and climb steep grass ledges, but I chose to stay on the rock. Belay at a nice grassy ledge with a hand-sized crack.
P2 - (5.7, 170 feet). Keep going straight up slabs and cracks to the base of a bulging wall. Take a steep flake system on the left side of this wall with good pro, then belay on another grassy ledge.
P3 - (5.4, 60 feet). A moderate ramp leads up to the base of the north pillar directly above you. Climb the right side of this ramp...there is a grassy gully just to your right. Belay on a small ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.
P4 - (5.6 R, 200 feet) This pitch shares terrain with North Pillar Left but stays right for a more direct finish. Follow the nice hand crack for about 40 feet up and left, then angle right and straight up the pillar. Pass a cluster of loose blocks on the right, then stretch the rope out to a ledge at the base of a blank slab.
P5 - (5.5 R, 150 feet). Boulder up the clean slab with no gear, then follow easier ground along an exposed ridge to a belay at a large block. North Pillar Left goes left on the ridge to an optional 5.7 step.
Some 4th class scrambling gains the summit from here.
Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.
At the base of the north face, right of the large gully where North Pillar Left begins, locate a small roof about 40 feet up. The first pitch goes around the right side of this roof.
P1 - (5.5 R, 180 feet). Climb nice slabs passing the right side of the roof mentioned above. Continue straight up...at times you can step left or right and climb steep grass ledges, but I chose to stay on the rock. Belay at a nice grassy ledge with a hand-sized crack.
P2 - (5.7, 170 feet). Keep going straight up slabs and cracks to the base of a bulging wall. Take a steep flake system on the left side of this wall with good pro, then belay on another grassy ledge.
P3 - (5.4, 60 feet). A moderate ramp leads up to the base of the north pillar directly above you. Climb the right side of this ramp...there is a grassy gully just to your right. Belay on a small ledge with a splitter hand crack for an anchor.
P4 - (5.6 R, 200 feet) This pitch shares terrain with North Pillar Left but stays right for a more direct finish. Follow the nice hand crack for about 40 feet up and left, then angle right and straight up the pillar. Pass a cluster of loose blocks on the right, then stretch the rope out to a ledge at the base of a blank slab.
P5 - (5.5 R, 150 feet). Boulder up the clean slab with no gear, then follow easier ground along an exposed ridge to a belay at a large block. North Pillar Left goes left on the ridge to an optional 5.7 step.
Some 4th class scrambling gains the summit from here.
Descent - to return to the base of the route, head west along the west ridge passing 2-3 towers on the right until it is possible to drop down a steep gully to the right (north). The further west you go along the ridge, the easier the descent will be. Once you exit the descent gully, veer right (east) and meander back to the base.
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