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North Peak
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North Face North Couloir (right couloir) 
Northwest Ridge T 

North Peak  

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Elevation: 12,242'
Page Views: 10,141
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. Albers on Dec 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: North Face of North Peak as seen from the start of...


Alpine peak just north of Mt. Conness with several great alpine ice couloirs.

Getting There 

Drive west on Hwy. 120 from Lee Vining. Turn right at the Saddlebag Lake/Sawmill Campground turnoff well before the Tuolumne Meadows entrance station. Drive to the end of the road and park as for routes on Mt. Conness at the Saddlebag Lake trailhead.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Peak:
North Face North Couloir (right couloir)   AI3 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   
Northwest Ridge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 800'   
Browse More Classics in North Peak

Featured Route For North Peak
24-September-2010: 3.5 pitches of ice in right cou...

North Face North Couloir (right couloir) AI3 Steep Snow  CA : High Sierra : ... : North Peak
Amazing alpine ice route with a relatively short approach. Generally steep snow and 50-55 degree ice for 6 continuous pitches. Generally stay on the right side of the couloir (though both sides can be climbed) because the slope of the chute funnels rock and ice to the left side. I have seen this climb in various conditions from steep neve mixed with ice to bullet-proof steep blue ice from top to bottom. I have never seen it as a snow couloir as is shown in S.P. Parker's guidebook.The North C...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of North Peak Slideshow Add Photo
greg on northwest ridge
greg on northwest ridge
North Peak on the approach.
BETA PHOTO: North Peak on the approach.
SE aspect of North Peak reflected in Greenstone La...
SE aspect of North Peak reflected in Greenstone La...
15-September-2010: Northwest Ridge (5.3)
BETA PHOTO: 15-September-2010: Northwest Ridge (5.3)
North Peak in the morning hours
North Peak in the morning hours
Spring approach to North Couloir
Spring approach to North Couloir
morning light on the SE aspect of North Peak
morning light on the SE aspect of North Peak

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