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The North Island of New Zealand for some reason hides in the shadow of its larger brother to the south when it comes to rock climbing. Despite warmer weather and less crowds, not to mention a dense strip of established climbing areas (several thousand routes within an hour drive), I have yet to hear anyone refer to North Island climbing save the handful of people I met while climbing there.
Fly in through Auckland or Wellington.
The best resource for Topos is the local website www.freeclimb.co.nz. It has free downloadable and printible PDF's covering most of the crags. It is generally very comprehensive but can sometimes be out of date for crags that are either being devloped, or smaller older crags that have been abandoned. Notible exceptions include Whangnaui Bay and Tongariro which do not feature on the freeclimb website. A paper guidebook for these areas can be purchased from some outdoor shops (e.g. Bivouac Outdoor) or online.
Kawakawa Bay, Lake Taupo
Froggatt's Edge, Wharepapa South
Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve
Waipapa, Wharepapa South
Castle Rock, Coromandel
Tongariro National Park
219 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in North Island
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Island:
Featured Route For North Island
Prokarstination 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c New Zealand : North Island : ... : The Grandstands
Classic Mangaokewa climbing. Start on an exposed juggy roof for 3 bolts. Transition from the roof to the headwall through stalactites with an optional (tricky) no hands rest. Continue up the steep face throwing big moves to plates and crimpers. Lower off anchors. A pumpy route with great features and exposure....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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