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The Taj Mahal
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North Headwall Direct? 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Langston & Lamont (slim)
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: slim on Sep 1, 2005

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Description 

Mediocre climbing to a steep 3 star crack through a headwall.

This route is on the north face, and starts just right of the vast, low angle, apron slab. There is a gully that eventually becomes a chimney (chimneychanga, 5.8).

P1 (5.5?, 150 feet?) Either climb the low angle, unprotected slab to a 2 bolt anchor, or scramble up the gully and make a belay in a recess below the chimney.

P2 (5.7, 100 feet) Climb the OW/chimney, passing one semi-manky bolt on the main wall. A green Big Bro could be useful here. Scramble left on a ledge and make a gear belay below the obvious roof crack. There is a horizontal crack system here for gear, but the rock is kind of crappy. Look around and be creative and you should be able to build a good anchor.

P3 (10c?, 160 feet) The first 10 feet of this pitch is pretty crappy. Rotten, bushy, layback flake. However, you are rewarded above. At the top of the flake pull into good hands through a roof/bulge. This crack is leaning, flaring, and steep. The jams are pretty good though if you look around. The crux comes at a section where it goes to OW for a short section. Battle through this via stacks, long reaches, and technical footwork. The crack gets less steep above with a gorgeous section of sustained #4.5 Camalot to #5 Camalot OW. Continue up and to the left and construct a creative belay at the top of the flake. Three star pitch without a doubt.

P4 (5.7, 50 feet) Straight up to the top past several really old and really crappy bolts. Careful here as the rock is a little crumbly.

There apparently was a summit register. A piece of PVC pipe, but the register was gone. Too bad, it would have been cool to see who had been up here.

Descent: Rap off to the west. Three single rope raps off new bolts, if I remember correctly. This brings you to a huge flat ledge. On the northwest side of the ledge, scramble down a gully and make your way around to the base.

Protection 

Wires to OW, some draws and runners.


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