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Routes in Elephant Butte
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North Gorge Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A1 |
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Standard (West Fins) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,623 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Todd Gordon on May 4, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
There is a vague discription of this route in Desert Rock;...this is more of an "adventure" than a climb. There is route finding, decisions, questions, trail and error, and maybe even luck to get to the summit;...which is the objective of this adventure. There is a small bolt ladder to ascend, a rappel or two, lots of scrambling, perhaps batman a short fixed rope....all sorts of stuff. Go for it!
Location
I can't even give a "crap" description, for I haven't a clue;....I just followed someone who knew the way.....See Eric's Desert Rock, p. 199, and good luck! Don't be discouraged by lack of info;....that's all part of the adventure with this one.....maybe ask at the Visitor's Center too?....or hit up a knowlegable Ranger.....
Protection
Bring a small rack of your choice. At one point , there are 5 bolts which need to be used to ascend and they might not have hangers...so maybe some stoppers or tie-offs for the studs are needed. I think there is also one section where you might need a 40-50 ' piece of rope to rap or batman down, and then use on the way back out..... it might be fixed, but it might not be.
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