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North Fork (of Mill Creek) is a great cold weather sport and trad crag in the LaSal mountains about 45 minutes to an hour from Moab, depending on whether or not you can drive the last 1.5 miles. Where you end up is right above Moab in between South and Wilson Mesas on BLM land with massive southern exposure, long sustained pitches on featured sandstone, and scenery as good as anywhere in the Moab area. Probably the only Moab crag with good cell service. If you donít find something you like, at least you can update your facebook status and complain. Though situated at about 7000í, it is often a solar oven while cold air hangs in the valley during winter inversions. The rim is very flat so runoff is generally not a problem after a storm and moisture/snow gets nuked very quickly if sunny. DO however read the approach info below regarding the final dirt road and mud/snow! The rock is softer and more desert like than Mill Creek so expect tiny edges to be fragile. Make sure the belayer at least has a helmet. Most or all routes have or will clean up with traffic but most are really good as is for the experienced desert climber. This is an approach from above crag like Mill Creek. And it is possible to scramble down below and avoid rapping in for all known routes. But loose unstable side hilling, bush whacking, and down chimneying, make rapping in the preferred alternative for most folks. For all but the Job Board, you will need a 70M rope! I suppose rapping in could eventually be a problem if it becomes busy. By nature, North Fork is definitely not kid friendly or dog friendly for those hounds that donít do well unattended on the rim.
Finding North Fork is very easy if you follow directions exactly and use your odometer. It is located off Sand Flats road 2.2 miles from the LaSal loop junction and 15.5 miles from the Sand Flats toll booth. The drive takes about 45 minutes whether you take Sand Flats road from Moab or go around the LaSal loop via Mill Creek. LaSal loop is the smoother, nicer option imo, though Sand Flats is the only option currently due to the ongoing construction at Mill Creek. From here drive your 4x4 with clearance or Suburu that you donít mind beating up south about 1.5 miles down a rough dirt road in DRY conditions within a 5 minute walk to the rim. Be advised though that this is a committing downhill drive and you may not get back out if muddy or snowy!!! If in doubt walk the extra easy 30 minutes. Please do NOT block either Sand Flats road or the approach road by parking in the way. The dirt road makes one big switchback at a barricaded gate (property line of the private ranch nearby). Then in another half mile youíll cross a very subtle arroyo then another bigger arroyo which is your easy 5 minute path to the rim. Just after the arroyo a large sagebrush meadow opens up telling you youíve gone just a bit too far. If driving park here using existing pullouts minimizing impact. Though the crag is sunny, the upper dirt road is not and holds moisture/snow because of shady aspects and pinon tree cover. Snow boots in winter might be a good idea. The crags and routes are listed east to west (climbers left to right, approachers right to left) and are spread out over about 300-400 yards.
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Gray Matter 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Gauntlet Wall
Techy slopey pocket and dish balance climbing up the obvious gray streak on incredible stone. You'll love or hate this climb. Can set up a TR from High Gravity. And like High Gravity, you can climb passed the anchor to the rim on easy 5th class slab....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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