North Face Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 10,200 ft |
GPS: |
40.28841, -105.65725 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,650 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | Adam B on Aug 29, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Likely due to the fact that just up the valley one finds classic climbing on the Cathedral Wall and Cathedral Spires, this large 1200 foot North face feature has seen very little documented activity by rock climbers (two high end mixed routes have been done in the winter). The wall is characterized by two distinct rock types separated by a large ledge system at 450 feet. Below the ledge system is super high quality, slabby granite marked by sparse crack systems and seams. This stone reminded me of the granite I enjoyed on a recent Sierra trip, albeit less splitter and much lower angle. Above the ledge system, the stone turns into your typical Hallett flavor of gneiss. While the lower granite face consists of gear protected slab climbing, the upper portion of the wall gets steeper, is highly featured (like Hallett), and has several intermittent crack systems. The majority of the rock climbing up here will be on the more moderate side of things.
Portions of the wall seep throughout the summer, but for having seen little to no action from climbers, the rock is remarkably clean on both the upper and lower sections of the face. Although identified here simply as the "North Face", it actually has more of a Northwest aspect and sees sun hit the lower slabs around noon in late August.
Portions of the wall seep throughout the summer, but for having seen little to no action from climbers, the rock is remarkably clean on both the upper and lower sections of the face. Although identified here simply as the "North Face", it actually has more of a Northwest aspect and sees sun hit the lower slabs around noon in late August.
Getting There
In late summer after the waters have begun to recede, head around on the trail to the west side of the Loch and cross the creek in any number of spots. Head straight up the short talus slope to the obvious wall with a large ledge at 450 feet and right of the two distinct gully systems (Deep Freeze and Necrophilia). Early season when waters are high, you may want to consider crossing at the outlet/east side of the Loch and walking along the talus above the south shore.
Classic Climbing Routes at North Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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