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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Kangaroo Ridge
> Kangaroo Temple
North Face
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 41
votes
Routes in Kangaroo Temple
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Koala Krack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Northwest Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Crain, Gordon, McGowan & Miller 1954 |
| Page Views: | 7,019 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jun 3, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Washington Pass Fire Closure Lifted
Details
Washington Pass Climbing was closed on 8/15/23 due to the Blue Lake Fire until further notice. On 9/7/23 this closure was reduced in size. On 9/22 this was reduced again, opening all WA Climbing Routes. For remaining closures, see:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
fs.usda.gov/alerts/okawen/a…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1- Start by moving climbers left up an angled crack, then through broken rock over multiple ledges. Pass a fixed piton, and end at about the 3rd ledge, with bolted rap anchors. In getting to the final ledge, take either the left or right crack. Use long slings to reduce rope drag.
P2- A very short pitch traversing ledges. Traverse a ledge / large boulder to climbers right. End at a shoulder-height block in front of a blind airy corner. Gear anchor.
P3- Begin with a fun step around a blind corner (exposed). You may protect this with a cam in a crack near the floor. There is a step-down move at the end of the ledge that people seem to have difficulty with. There is also a somewhat flared crack leading to the belay tree that can be difficult.
P4- You can choose to scramble directly to the summit block or move climber's left up a large flake/crack for another short pitch to the summit block. from here, it is a short scramble to the summit.
Descent- Rap from chains atop the North Face and from chains at P1 belay.
A total of 3 single rope raps (60-m ropes) will get you to where you started.
P2- A very short pitch traversing ledges. Traverse a ledge / large boulder to climbers right. End at a shoulder-height block in front of a blind airy corner. Gear anchor.
P3- Begin with a fun step around a blind corner (exposed). You may protect this with a cam in a crack near the floor. There is a step-down move at the end of the ledge that people seem to have difficulty with. There is also a somewhat flared crack leading to the belay tree that can be difficult.
P4- You can choose to scramble directly to the summit block or move climber's left up a large flake/crack for another short pitch to the summit block. from here, it is a short scramble to the summit.
Descent- Rap from chains atop the North Face and from chains at P1 belay.
A total of 3 single rope raps (60-m ropes) will get you to where you started.
Location
Park at the hairpin turnout on WA20. From there, walk south through the boulder field looking for a climber's trail leading into the woods. Follow the trail through more forest and boulder fields until you reach Kangaroo Pass. The trail through the boulder fields is faint and sometimes cairned; do your best to approach the pass and pick the trail up again when it reappears. The trail is very well defined once you start rapidly gaining elevation up the pass. Travel time to the pass ~1hr.
From the pass, traverse left on another sometimes there, sometimes not trail. Eventually the trail will take you to a gully leading up to the notch between Kangaroo Temple and Little Finger. Go up for the North Face.
From the pass, traverse left on another sometimes there, sometimes not trail. Eventually the trail will take you to a gully leading up to the notch between Kangaroo Temple and Little Finger. Go up for the North Face.
Photos
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